Judge’s Review: 85 Rating – Alter Kriek by Alter Brewing Co.

Fruit Lambic | Limited Release | USA

By Rick Franckhauser

Judges Rating: 85.00
Aroma: 20.00
Appearance: 5.00
Flavor: 35.00
Mouthfeel: 8.00
Overall Impression: 17.00

 Alter Kriek by Alter Brewing Co. was judged under the guidelines for BJCP category 23F, Fruit Lambic.
The aroma opened with a distinct Brettanomyces funk up front that was quickly followed by a woody oak quality. Some vanilla notes, presumably via oak, accompanied. A strong impression of sourness then began to override but the presence of some fermented cherries can be found, along with a little alcohol, contributing a vinous impression. As it warms up, there is a slight acetate quality that distracts from the Brett and fruit. Earthy notes and a touch of bruised apple also come through with a little grainy malt.
The beer is a copper color with some haze. While the fruit addition can add some haze, this seems a little more than expected; maybe it’s young. The rocky off-white head drops out quickly and leaves no trace. The beer appears to be flat, no signs of carbonation after the head disappears. It resembles a straight, unblended Lambic base as opposed to an effervescent Gueuze.
The flavor provides an initial hit of citric and malic acid. Unfortunately, the acetic acid begins to distract. A low-level grainy malt is noted. The fermented cherries and alcohol present the vinous quality found in the aroma and are a welcome guest, although I wanted more. The sourness is dominant in the balance, replacing any need for bitterness. The apple notes in the aroma read more like a dry English Cider in the flavor. Some of the woody oak and vanillin comes through along with a faint hint of bunt sugar. A slight vinegar quality comes in and the combination with the fruit reminds me a little of red wine vinegar, interesting but should not be here. The beer is also quite dry, and the sourness continues to increase as I work through the glass, moving toward astringent. There are a lot of interesting things going on here, but I just wish the acidity was lower to provide a more enjoyable experience. Fortunately, the fermented cherries manage to reappear in the aftertaste.
The body is very light with virtually no carbonation. However, the high levels of acidity and mouth-drying tannin quality would be unpleasant if the beer was also highly carbonated. There is some warmth but it’s not hot. As noted in the flavor there is some astringency, which takes away from the overall enjoyment of the beer.
Much of what is experienced in this beer is what you will find in a classic Belgian Kriek. This is a very interesting beer that takes you on a journey, with multiple expressions and interesting things to discover as you drink through. I’m wondering if the additional acidity and tannin from the cherries have pushed the sourness of the base beer toward a slightly harsh impression. The fermentation character of the cherries was very nicely integrated; I only wish that it was more dominant and the sourness was more in check to bring a better balance. I would also like a touch more of the Brett qualities to have come through in the flavor. Some of this is a matter of personal preference, but I think the acidity level is too aggressive and distracts from the other great qualities of the beer. The vinegar and cider notes are out of place. I wanted to blend this with some additional old Lambic for some extra funk and a little less sourness, or maybe just a little more wheat beer to balance the sour. Overall, if you think most sour beers are too timid, you may want to get your hands on some of this.