Judge’s Review: 90 Rating – Serveza by Sycamore Brewing Co.

Fruit Beer | Year-Round | USA

By David Sapsis

Judges Rating: 90.00
Aroma: 21.00
Appearance: 6.00
Flavor: 37.00
Mouthfeel: 8.00
Overall Impression: 18.00

Serveza, from Sycamore Brewing Company of Charlotte N.C, described as a Mexican style lager with Blood Orange and Lime, is being judged against style 29A Fruit Beer, where the base style is International Light Lager (I am guessing in the Clara style that dominates the market). The beer is served in a pilsner glass at 46F, with a faintly hazy gold color and sporting a 2-inch creamy off-white cap of foam that shows good persistence.
The nose emits a medium assertive blood orange note with dark tones and some muted  but evident lime/oily zest character above a light and modest backdrop of malt sweetness; the fruit notes largely mask the beery-ness — it comes off a bit like a citrus tea.  With some swirling I do note a clean light sulfur, and no evident ester or DMS notes. The  fruit additions really do dominate the nose, but overall it is light and seems refreshing. 
The flavor profile starts out quite fruit/citrus juicy with light orange and lime flavors dominating through the mid-palate of very low bitterness with countervailing tartness notes from lime flavors. The late palate dances the blood orange richness and the more angular and acidic lime element with a (very) light bready-malt note. The dry and fruity finish is dominated by light citrus fruit that is clean but not heavily fresh and “real” with a re-emergent bitterness that enhances the dry balance. Lingering on the aftertaste I note a a muted lime with a hint of residual malt sweetness. If there is a corn-cereal note as typical of Clara beers, I can’t find it. One striking element that is missing is pronounced carbonation that I think is a required hallmark for the style — the beer could really benefit from higher conditioning. I get no astringency and a touch of nice creaminess, possibly enhanced by the low carbonic. 
Serveza is a light fruit beer that goes down easy.  My main quibble is the Mexican lager part (bright, crisp, fizzy and usually corny) isn’t obvious as the base beer. I think this is due to two issues: first the fruit elements, while not massive, are pretty assertive especially in the mid-palate to finish where normally the fizzy Clara lager dries out and shines with thirst-slaking aplomb. Here it’s a bit flabby and that brings a me to the base beer: It really needs more carbonic to remind you you are drinking light lager and not limeade. Those issues aside, the beer is very drinkable with a dry finish and low bitterness and pretty nice fruit notes, where the blood orange shone in the aroma and the lime notes in the flavor and finish. My brain goes (as it often does) to some al pastor street tacos laden with a tad too much taquera salsa picante that needs quenching. Salud!