Why Does California’s Edna Valley Pinot Noir Come With Fewer Tannins?

The unique landscape of the Edna Valley in San Luis Obispo County, California creates microclimates that are conducive to growing a soft and supple pinot noir grape. Wineries like Sinor-LaVallee are in the unique position of being situated just miles from the ocean, which brings cool weather to an otherwise warm climate. The thin grape skin yields a less-astringent flavor with fewer tannins than pinot noirs in warm climates. Since tannins primarily come from the grape’s skin, pinot noir is among the red wines with the least amount of them. I sat down with Mike Sinor, owner and winemaker at Sinor-LaVallee Estate Wines to better understand the nuances of Edna Valley pinot noir. 

Mike Sinor began wine harvesting in 1993. Three years later, he married his wife, Cheri LaVallee Sinor. In 2013, the two of them purchased a vineyard near Avila Beach that’s known for its unique climate. Today, Sinor LaVallee’s vineyard is in the unique position of being situated in an east-to-west running valley where “you don’t find the big, heavy, structured wines here. They’re pretty elegant,” explained Sinor. “The brightness happens much more gently and later in the season,” he added, which is how the pinot noir grape acquires its flavor. 

Sinor LaVallee produces some white varietals, but predominantly focuses on pinot noirs on its 30-acre parcel of land. Located just 1.2 miles from the ocean, the vineyard rests upon sloping terrain with marine-based soil, making it a place with limited yield potential but the innate ability to produce intense flavor profiles. 

Another distinguishing component of Edna Valley pinot noirs relates to its acidity. Compared to other red wines in the region, the area’s pinot noirs finish with higher acidity levels, according to Sinor. “We have colder days and colder nights. So, the grape, itself, aspires acid at nighttime.” This contributes to a bright flavor with naturally tart characteristics, yet it’s not overtly aggressive in the same way that full-bodied wines might be. 

Sinor, a largely self-taught winemaker, fell in love with the craft nearly 30 years ago. But since he began harvesting pinot noir grapes in 2001, pinot has become his most fermented grape. It also happens to be his favorite wine. “So, my style of pinot is really trying to explore what pinot could be,” he said. While Edna Valley pinot noirs tend to come with lower alcohol content than some warm weather options, it’s possible to produce a range of different types of pinot noirs in the region. 

Today, Sinor-Vallee Wine Company boasts an expansive collection of pinot noirs. “My company makes five different pinot noirs. They range from alcohols of 9% alcohol, like my sparkling pet-nat, to 17% alcohol pinot.” 

Furthermore, the winery has mastered a skill set that’s incredibly difficult to perfect. Pinot noir grapes are notoriously hard to grow. In fact, the pinot grape is often referred to as the “heartbreak grape,” because it requires highly specific climate and soil conditions. With a thin skin, the grape is more likely to grow mold and mildew. It can be overly sensitive to sunlight. And it’s highly susceptible to pests, which can quickly make or break a crop. If the summer is too warm, or a fungus makes its way into the vineyard, winemakers end the grape season with a wave of disappointment. 

Still, mastering its production isn’t impossible given the right skill set. “Pinot Noir has always been what I’ve done, and so I’m just very familiar with it and confident in creating it,” said Sinor.

When asked what the secret to mastering the cool-weather pinot noir grape is, Sinor said, “I was taught by great wine makers. It’s about being careful, you know? It’s about being gentle. You know, the generation before me treated pinot noir like cabernet sauvignon, and that’s not really the right thing to do.” While growers might handle cabernet with a heavier hand because of its enthusiastic growth, the same energy cannot be brought to pinot noir. 

Instead, winemakers have to bring a gentle touch to the vineyard. “You have to be very careful.” The pinot noir grape is extremely sensitive to its environment. A single late-season frost can significantly damage or even eliminate pinot noir crops. 

But one factor that works in favor of Edna Valley winemakers is the long pinot noir growing season. While Edna Valley is located pretty far south to be a pinot noir haven, its microclimate extends the rowing season by two to three months compared to winemakers in Oregon. This gives the grape a significantly longer season to reach maturity and refine its flavors, creating a lighter-bodied, dry flavor with fruit notes like cherry, raspberry and even strawberry. 

While he admits that he’s biased, Sinor also thinks that pinot noir is a great “starter wine” for white wine drinkers, “because it’s low in tannins, and it’s got fruit, but it’s not aggressive,” he states. Wine drinkers who steer clear of reds due to higher histamine responses often find that pinot noir is more forgiving due to its thin skin. 

Eventually, wine drinkers might transition to a cabernet to experience its full-bodied, rich, blackcurrant profile. Many wine lovers pledge to remain loyal to cabernet until the end of time. But Sinor finds that those who really dive into red wine end up back in the pinot noir fan club because of its lighter, complex, delicate flavor. “That’s the best wine in the world,” he said.

While Sinor is currently in the midst of harvesting his latest pinot noir haul, visitors to the Edna Valley region should stop at the Shuck Shack to experience a carefully curated tasting that’s complete with Morro Bay oysters. Today, Sinor’s son and daughter are learning the craft of winemaking to continue the family’s tradition of bringing some of the best cool-climate pinot noir wines to life in Edna Valley.