Stark by Reformation Brewery is being evaluated as an American Porter (2021 BJCP Guidelines, Category 20A). True to style, it poured a very dark brown color beneath a small stand of tan foam. Clarity couldn’t be determined due to the dark color.

The first sniff reveals a significant amount of toasted malt alongside moderate earthy hops that were moss-like. Restrained baker’s chocolate and earthy coffee round out the malt side. Fermentation character is distinctly English with a prune ester coming forth after the immediate, moderate red apple ester.

The flavor of the beer is mostly like the aroma with a malt-forward flavor of toast, brown bread, hint of caramel, chocolate and coffee that mingles with earthy, slightly floral hops. Hints of dried stone fruit and apples linger in the mouth just before a semi-dry, fast finish. The roasted malt lingers well into the aftertaste. The light-medium body helps to push this dark, roasty beer into the porter category.

Stark is a bright mark in the category of classic American porters that seem to be fading commercially. Although it was evaluated as an American Porter, it’d be best described in older guidelines as a Robust Porter, which was distinctly English with its fermentation character. At 5.5 % ABV, it showcases a depth of flavor without the heaviness of bigger beers.