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#2
97
by Sean Coughlin
Mexican Empire
Arches Brewing
Founder and Brewmaster Jamey Adams Talks Mexican Empire
Who was responsible for this beer’s recipe?
The Mexican Empire recipe was developed by chemists Jeff Dake and Jamey Adams as homebrewers well over 8 years ago. Jeff is now Arches’ director of quality and has focused heavily on the specific lager yeast strain used to ferment this beer while Jamey, the brewmaster, has been obsessed with the chemistry of the water that builds the foundation for the flavor of this beer.
What sets this beer apart from other examples within the style?
Simply stated, Arches’ philosophy of brewing and the water. We brew each beer as if we were in the host country of origin. For Mexican Empire, this requires us to build the water profile to match that of the region surrounding Vienna. Our water is sourced from an underground river system 450 feet beneath the brewery. This water is extremely soft and devoid of any minerals or chemicals that could affect the subtle flavors of the Vienna style. The mineral profile of the brewing water sets the stage for the complex interactions between malt and hop flavors. The nearly 98 percent Vienna malt grain bill dominates the initial aroma and taste while the German noble hops finish the beer without stealing the show.
What makes this beer truly world class?
Above all, it’s the attention to detail by the brewhouse staff. When we planned to create the most authentic Vienna Lager in the U.S., we treated it like a scientific experiment. We asked ourselves what does a brewery in Austria have access to that we in the States do not and the answer was Viennese water, German grains and noble hops. We then created a plan to source or create those things and then meticulously logged our batches over the last 6 years – changing one thing at a time and comparing those to the BJCP style guidelines and to exemplary beers from this style.
What’s your favorite aspect of this beer (flavor, aroma, etc.)?
The aroma and flavor that comes from using Vienna malt as the base, the balance of malt and bitterness that is only obtainable by using the clean profile of noble hops and finally the drinkability of this slightly darker-than-amber beer that surprises most first-time drinkers.
Can you describe this beer in 10 words or less?
Deep amber, nutty and bready malt specificity, noble hops subtlety.
Do you know a story – or have a personal story – that revolves around this beer?
My wife was following a strict Paleo diet for 6+ years that excluded all beer. She slipped up one afternoon and it took a week to wean her off the power of the “Mexican Empire!”
Is this your “desert island beer?”
No, but it is great on the beach!
Judge’s Second Opinion
Vienna lagers are sadly in short supply throughout the United States, but what Arches Brewing has delivered via their Mexican Empire will hopefully help to change that. Their newest year-round offering is undoubtedly a world-class example of a classic style and a beer that is accessible to palates of both craft connoisseurs and beer newbies alike.
The most striking element of this beer is the expression of malt. There is incredible richness for such a simple beer. White bread, bread crust, toasted bread and a touch of nuttiness result in a beer that exemplifies the word “malty.” It is balanced by enough hop bitterness to keep it from seeming sweet but restrained enough to showcase the malt profile – this balance is easier said than done. The exceptionally clean lager fermentation results in a well-attenuated beer that also allows the malt to shine.
Mexican Empire offers a more robust malt character and a little more hop bitterness than most other Viennas. Many Vienna lagers are either brewed with adjuncts such as corn or rice, which will lighten the malt character, or may be brewed with caramel malts to help achieve an amber color that can result in too much residual sweetness for the style. Mexican Empire can be utilized in a variety of settings – a beer for the casual drinker, a beer for the discerning palate, or a great offering to pair with food. This Vienna Lager has such a profound breadiness that it can essentially work as a carbohydrate/starch substitute at your next meal. The rich malt profile will also help to temper any level of spice – appropriately making it a great choice for pairing with Mexican or Tex-Mex cuisine.
If you have not had the pleasure of discovering this underappreciated classic style, seek this beer out. If you are a Vienna lager aficionado, seek this beer out. If you have never had a craft beer in your life but are curious as to what the excitement is all about, seek this beer out. Mexican Empire is truly world-class and personally hope it inspires a Vienna lager revival. –Sean Coughlin