Top 100 Beers of 2018
Story by:
Editorial Dept.
Each year, we collect the highest-scoring beers evaluated in the Official Review and combine them into a list of the finest examples. In 2018, the rise of hazy American IPAs was evident, as many of the most well-brewed American IPAs and Double IPAs were unfiltered.
Once again this year, we witnessed Specialty Wood-Aged Beers aged in a variety of bourbon, gin, rum, wine and other barrels featured in every style bracket. Our judges loved the complexity, aroma characteristics added by the use of essential oils and wide range of flavors that aging beers in barrels provided.
Many exemplary German styles are present, such as flavorful Festbiers and easy-drinking Pilsners, and big Belgian beers are also well represented such as Tripels, Quadrupels and Saisons. Additionally, multiple varieties of sour and wild beers were reviewed such as American Wild Ales, Mixed-Fermentation Sour Beers, Wild Specialty Beers and Brettanomyces Beers. We hope you enjoy reading about the Top 100 Beers of 2018 and that you use this list to help navigate the vast expanse of beers available today.
ABOUT
The Official Review is conducted in a single blind tasting format that adheres to the Beer Judge Certification Program 2015 Style Guidelines. This method provides the best opportunity to rely on facts and to avoid favoritism, ensuring a level playing field for all brewers. It serves both the industry and the consumer to have unbiased and objective scores from qualified experts.
In effort to provide the most credible evaluations, The Beer Connoisseur hand-selects judges with a minimum BJCP ranking of “National” or Master Cicerone®. Judges are required to work with an assistant that handles beer prior to evaluation, and breweries are not allowed to solicit judges directly.
In the single blind tasting format, judges are presented with a chilled, properly poured beer and given its style category. Scoring is then done on the following basis using a 100-point scale: Aroma (24 points), Appearance (6 points), Flavor (40 points), Mouthfeel (10 points) and Overall Impression (20 points).
The score breakdown is as follows:
100 to 96: World Class – You need this beer in your life.
95 to 91: Exceptional – Don’t hesitate.
90 to 86: Very Good – A brew to savor.
85 to 75: Average – Somewhat unimpressive.
74 and below: Not Recommended – Just walk away.
#100
93
by Michael Heniff
Saddleback
Uinta Brewing
#99
93
by Joseph Formanek
Fire Iron
Urban Artifact
#98
93
by Tracy Hensley
Buffalo Bill’s Black Pumpkin Stout
Buffalo Bill’s Brewery
#97
93
by John C. Tull
Four Seasons – Summer ’18
Mother Earth Brew Co.
#96
93
by John C. Tull
Shared Waters
Coronado Brewing Co.
#95
93
by Michael Heniff
Pêche
Alesong Brewing & Blending
#94
93
by Rodney A. Tillinghast
Ante Meridiem
Monday Night Brewing
#93
93
by Jason Johnson
Licher Weizen
Licher Privatbrauerei
#92
93
by Rick Franckhauser
Starr Hill Amber Ale
Starr Hill Brewery
#91
93
by Sean Coughlin
Oak & Rosé
Upland Brewing Co.
#90
93
by Pat Mulloy
Wine Barrel-Aged Magic Trait
Speciation Artisan Ales
#89
93
by Brad Darnell
Zoigl-Pils
Zoiglhaus Brewing Co.
#88
93
by James Link
KC Bier Co. Hefeweizen
KC Bier Co.
#87
93
by Jim Koebel
Night Game
Sketchbook Brewing Co.
#86
93
by Jim Koebel
14° ESB
Bent Paddle Brewing Co.
#85
93
by Michael Heniff
Big Mother Triple IPA
Mother Earth Brew Co.
#84
93
by Richard Wong
pFriem Helles Lager
pFriem Family Brewers
#83
93
by Brian Eichhorn
Inline IPA
Garage Brewing Co.
#82
93
by Richard Wong
Highland Charge Wee Heavy Scottish Ale
Heathen Brewing
#81
93
by Brad Darnell
Capella Porter
Ecliptic Brewing
#80
93
by Randy Scorby
Dry-Hopped Censored
Lagunitas Brewing Co.
#79
93
by Tracy Hensley
North Island IPA
Coronado Brewing Co.
#78
93
by Susan Ruud
pFriem Extra Pale Ale
pFriem Family Brewers
#77
93
by Jim Koebel
Saison de Rose
Free Will Brewing Co.
#76
93
by Pat Mulloy
Elbow Patches
The Virginia Beer Co.
#75
93
by Randy Scorby
Man Juice
Knee Deep Brewing Co.
#74
93
by Sean Coughlin
La Trappe Witte
Trappist Brewery Koningshoeven
#73
93
by Michael Heniff
Cloud Catcher Milkshake IPA
Odell Brewing Co.
#72
93
by David Sapsis
Betty IPA
Hangar 24 Craft Brewing
#71
93
by Sal Mortillaro II
Alpha Abstraction Vol. 3
Wild Leap Brew Co.
#70
94
by Randy Scorby
Pinot Fresa
Angel City Brewing
#69
94
by Michael Heniff
Riegele Augustus
Brauhaus Riegele
#68
94
by Joseph Formanek
Concrete Dinosaur
Right Brain Brewery
#67
94
by Michael Heniff
Last Will & Testament
Monday Night Brewing
#66
94
by Richard Wong
Reuben’s Brews Pilsner
Reuben’s Brews
#65
94
by Dan Martich
Modern Tart
Upland Brewing Co.
#64
94
by Jason Johnson
Syringa Pale Ale
Boise Brewing Co.
#63
94
by Richard Wong
Four Seasons – Winter ’18
Mother Earth Brew Co.
#62
94
by Susan Ruud
Hop Peak IPA
Breckenridge Brewery
#61
94
by David Sapsis
pFriem Barrel Aged Saison II
pFriem Family Brewers
#60
94
by Pat Mulloy
Funkwerks Saison
Funkwerks
#59
94
by Pat Mulloy
The Laurentian Series, Lake Superior
Speciation Artisan Ales
#58
94
by John C. Tull
Lemon Zest Farmhouse Ale
pFriem Family Brewers
#57
94
by Jim Koebel
Bastogne Ardenne Saison
Brasserie de Bastogne
#56
94
by David Sapsis
Fayuca Rizing
Helio Basin Brewing Co.
#55
94
by James Link
KC Helles Lager
KC Bier Co.
#54
94
by Jason Johnson
Goodwood Bourbon Barrel Stout
Goodwood Brewing Co.
#53
94
by Pat Mulloy
Apricot Orchard Brett Golden Ale
The Virginia Beer Co.
#52
94
by Rick Franckhauser
Front Row
Starr Hill Brewery
#51
94
by Rick Franckhauser
Looking Glass
Starr Hill Brewery
#50
94
by James Link
King Gambrinus
Jersey Girl Brewing Co.
#49
94
by Michael Heniff
La Trappe Quadrupel
Trappist Brewery Koningshoeven
#48
94
by Richard Wong
Mega Mint Imperial Chocolate Milk Stout
Heathen Brewing
#47
94
by James Link
Danzig
Devils Backbone Brewing Co.
#46
94
by John C. Tull
Bailey’s Taproom 10th
pFriem Family Brewers
#45
94
by John C. Tull
Super Saison
pFriem Family Brewers
#44
94
by Dan Martich
Blind Pirate
Monday Night Brewing
#43
94
by David Sapsis
Steamworks Pilsner
Steamworks Brewing Co.
#42
94
by David Sapsis
Jolly Russian
Odell Brewing Co.
#41
95
by Sal Mortillaro II
Zwart Black Star
De Proef Brouwerij
#40
95
by Randy Scorby
Weekend Vibes IPA
Coronado Brewing Co.
#39
95
by Jim Koebel
Oak & White
Upland Brewing Co.
#38
95
by Randy Scorby
Never Better DIPA
Coronado Brewing Co.
#37
95
by John C. Tull
Nectarine Golden Ale
pFriem Family Brewers
#36
95
by Tracy Hensley
Digital Bath
Belching Beaver Brewery
#35
95
by Susan Ruud
Transcend IPA
Heathen Brewing
#34
95
by Brad Darnell
Four Seasons – Autumn ’18
Mother Earth Brew Co.
#33
95
by Michael Bury
Seedstock Oktoberfest
Seedstock Brewing Co.
#32
95
by Rick Franckhauser
Temporarily Permanent
Cape May Brewing Co.
#31
95
by Brad Darnell
Bo Pils
East Brother Beer Co.
#30
95
by Sean Coughlin
Amirite?!
Springdale Beer
#29
95
by John C. Tull
Blonde de l’Enfer
Unibroue
#28
95
by Dan Martich
Clencher
BuckleDown Brewing
#27
95
by Brad Darnell
Epitaph Russian Imperial Stout
Heathen Brewing
#26
95
by Tracy Hensley
Fresh Bongwater Hemp Ale
KettleHouse Brewing Co.
#25
95
by David Sapsis
pFriem Vienna Lager
pFriem Family Brewers
#24
95
by Richard Wong
Santa’s Little Helper
Port Brewing Co.
#23
95
by Pat Mulloy
pFriem Flanders Blonde
pFriem Family Brewers
#22
95
by Michael Heniff
Brewery Lane Series: Imperial Vanilla Porter Aged in Rum Barrels
Breckenridge Brewery
#21
95
by John C. Tull
Maibock
Devils Backbone Brewing Co.
#20
95
by Jim Koebel
Pinky Sweater
Sketchbook Brewing Co.
#19
95
by Randy Scorby
Barreljuice, Barreljuice, Barreljuice
Angel City Brewing
#18
95
by Jim Koebel
Aspall Grand Cru
Aspall Cider House
#17
95
by Nelson Crowle
Barrel-Aged Legion
Community Beer Co.
#16
95
by Brad Darnell
Fastback Racer
Bear Republic Brewing Co.
#15
95
by Richard Wong
Highland Charge Bourbon Barrel Aged Wee Heavy Scottish Ale
Heathen Brewing
#14
96
by Sal Mortillaro II
Tunnel Vision DDH w/Citra
Bearded Iris Brewing
Head Brewer Brandon Tarr Talks DDH Tunnel Vision with Citra
Who was responsible for this beer’s recipe?
There is a collaborative effort among our small team of brewers to create new recipes, and Tunnel Vision DDH w/ Citra has been honed through many batches of different IPAs and DIPAs we have brewed.
What sets this beer apart from other examples within the style?
Relative to more traditional IPAs, Hazy IPAs tend to be made up of more intense elements. These components can make it easy to misstep and make a beer that tastes overly intense. Tunnel Vision strikes a balance between its hop saturation and drinkability without sacrificing either one.
What makes this beer truly world class?
We are always aiming to make beers that both our customers and team are fond of. With Tunnel Vision, I think a lot of things come together to make a beer that I would happily drink more than one of, and it is great to see it reviewed so highly.
What is your favorite aspect of this beer (flavor, aroma, mouthfeel, etc.)?
With any beer it is the combination of all its aspects, which make it what it is. Any one element of a beer out of place can throw off the experience of the rest. In the case of this beer, it has a saturation of hop flavor that rivals a DIPA in a 6.8 percent package. The sheer volume of essential oils from the hops cause the beer to taste more like orange-grapefruit juice than beer. Left alone this would make it too fruity but the underlying bitterness helps to anchor this as a beer in the finish and prepare you for another sip. In a beer style that can easily go too far in any one direction this beer nails the balance of all its parts.
How popular is this beer among your faithful fans?
Tunnel Vision is a go-to for our regulars and team. They may start with whatever new beer we have just released but they often finish with a Homestyle or a Tunnel Vision DDH w/ Citra.
Where does this beer’s name come from?
The vast majority of our beer names come from different cultivars of irises. There’s an incredible amount of beautiful iris varieties, each with a unique name to choose from.
Is this your desert island beer?
While Tunnel Vision DDH w/ Citra has been my go-to beer at the brewery, for a more desert island-appropriate beer, see my next answer.
What’s a good food pairing for this beer?
For a good “food pairing” pour a half-full glass of orange juice then fill the cup with Tunnel Vision DDH w/ Citra. It makes a killer Beermosa that’s very, very refreshing.
Judge’s Second Opinion
I have to admit, a few years ago I was not a fan of Hazy IPAs. Sure, the beers are unique, tasty, silky, soft, and tropical but they go against everything us long-time beer drinkers and style purists have known an IPA to be over the last several decades. The hallmark of the IPA *is* bitterness! Hell, it even goes against some of the hallmarks of brewing that have been ingrained the last several centuries! Not long ago hallmarks of good brewing were clarity, balance and shelf life. The Hazy IPAs have laughed at these notions and blazed their own path.
It’s been an interesting thing to watch Hazy IPAs grow exponentially faster than any other style I can recall in almost 20 years of paying close attention to the craft beer scene. It seems every brewery has a Hazy IPA now and some have built their breweries on an almost exclusive lineup of Hazy IPAs.
I have become a changed Beer Judge. My thoughts have changed from a style I believed was a fad to a style I believe is here to stay. These beers are quiteunique and showcase the power of and flavor profiles of hops. They have become an easily enjoyable and tasty introduction to craft beer; when I started dating my girlfriend almost two years ago, I introduced her to a local Hazy IPA which weened her off of a very well-known American Light Lager and helped to expand her willingness to explore craft beer almost overnight.
I had the chance to revisit a can of Bearded Iris’s Tunnel Vision DDH with Citra that had a little bit more age on it and found some of the original harsh notes to have toned down over time (as I suspected they would in the original review). To me, this beer is an excellent example of what this style embodies, which is an easy-drinking, approachable, flavorful, juicy, soft, and never boring beer.
It has been exciting to watch brewers manipulate the ingredients of beer (water, grain, yeast, and hops) to create a style that has undoubtedly become one that will be remembered throughout history. – Sal Mortillaro II
#13
96
by Jim Koebel
Southside Lager
Arches Brewing
Founder Jeff Dake Talks Southside Lager
Who was responsible for this beer’s recipe?
I first designed the original recipe for this beer at my home in an attempt to taste/test the impact of decoction mashing versus the use of specialty grain. I used a simple grain bill, noble hops and a Bavarian lager yeast strain to create a beer where differences in the subtleties of the flavor would be easiest to discern. After brewing this beer multiple times, we all grew to love the characteristic caramel flavor and deep color created through decoction and the crisp hop finish of this classic lager style.
What sets this beer apart from other examples within the style?
The difference-maker in this beer is the decoction mashing, which brings a bit of traditional European brewing technique to a modern craft brewery. Originally done by Arches as direct fire boiling of portions of the mash, we never thought we’d be able to bring that character to a beer made on the steam-jacketed 20-barrel brewhouse. But with some clever thinking and a little flexibility, we’ve developed a multi-stage mash that still creates the caramelized character of the decoction process by boiling at least 50 percent of the grain bill for up to 45 minutes.
What makes this beer truly world class?
Focusing on the core elements of a simple lager style brings the world-class character to this beer. We put so much effort into the treatment of the grain, building a balanced water profile that supports both malt and hops, and we continue to use a Bavarian lager yeast that won’t create flavors that mask the malt character and will flocculate out readily to allow you to appreciate the gorgeous color and clarity. The European noble hops, including Hallertauer, Tettnang and Saaz impart a delicate spicy character to temper the sweetness of the unfermentable elements. This beer isn’t built on a trend, or a regional ingredient/character; it’s a faithful representation of the classic lager. The character of the beer is nearly as old as professional brewing itself. This is the little black dress of beers – always in style.
What is your favorite aspect of this beer (flavor, aroma, mouthfeel, etc.)?
The appearance of this beer is stunning. You can’t help but pause and admire it freshly poured into a pint glass. The amber hue and lacy cream head stand in sharp contrast and looking through it is like looking through a stained glass window. Its appearance stands out as the epitome of what a beer should look like, and you can almost taste the malt character by looking at it.
How popular is this beer among your faithful fans?
Southside is a consistent draw with our fans and newcomers. It is the beer that we recommend to those who know little about craft beer or to seasoned drinkers that need to be reminded of their roots. It is a beer drinker’s beer that never interrupts a good conversation and simply vanishes from your glass at some point in the middle of talking. What’s been most satisfying to us is the amount of love (and demand) for Southside that we’ve gotten from craft beer bars in Georgia. In an industry where innovation and bold flavors are expected out of your local craft beer bar, it’s nice to see beer enthusiasts of all kinds appreciate Southside for what it is.
Judge’s Second Opinion
International Amber Lager is not exactly the most popular style among craft beer fanatics. When you think of this style, what may come to mind is the “import” option at your nearest fast-casual chain restaurant. Can you name a classic example? I couldn’t either, until drinking Southside Lager by Arches Brewing.
The requirements for this style are simple and few: Clean lager character, well attenuated and a slight caramel or toasty maltiness. Sure, there are several optional characteristics, like noble hops and adjunct flavor, but everything must be mild enough to appeal to all types of beer drinker.
An everyday beer like this doesn’t have to make much of a statement in order to make a statement. It doesn’t have to (and shouldn’t) be the biggest, richest, sourest or bitterest beer in the world. Instead, quality and technical merit speak for themselves and make all the difference. Those things mean much more than, say, riding the latest craft beer wave that happens to be cresting (I’m looking at you, New England IPA).
In my original review of this beer, I wrote that it straddles boundaries. It does so in two ways. The first is that it is a craft version of a mass-market beer. Southside Lager certainly isn’t the first beer to be that, but its presence in 2018 signals continued maturity in the craft beer segment. “Craft” beer is no longer code for any single grouping of styles. In other words, style no longer separates craft from macro or quality beer from sudsy swill.
The second is its relation to the session beer trend. For some reason, some beers get to be called “session” (e.g., a mid-range ABV IPA) while others are called “entry-level” (e.g., a Blonde Ale).
There’s no longer a need for this distinction. Southside Lager is an everyday beer you can keep stocked and have no trouble finding a reason to enjoy. The fact that it’s a craft take on mass-market style shouldn’t mean it’s something approachable for your macro-drinking friends. It’s a beer we can all appreciate. – Jim Koebel
#12
96
by Nelson Crowle
Maple Barrel Aged Smoked Porter
pFriem Family Brewers
Head Brewer Gavin Lord Talks Maple Barrel Aged Smoked Porter
Who was responsible for this beer’s recipe?
The pFriem Team!
What sets this beer apart from other examples within the style?
I think this beer is set apart by its subtlety. While all the sought after notes are present, no one element overpowers the others. Instead, it strikes a delicate balance between maple, oak, bourbon, chocolate, toffee, smoke, vanilla and warmth. Each plays a critical yet understated role. While some barrel-aged beers aim to hit you over the head with flavors and aromas, this one instead seeks to kiss you on the cheek.
What makes this beer truly world class?
Our team. While we’re always seeking the world’s best raw ingredients, barrels, equipment, theory and process, none of these things make beer. Our team of world-class brewers, packagers, and lab techs do. Over the years, they’ve each demonstrated a relentless commitment to quality and an irrepressible pursuit of improvement. Their hard work is on display here – and in every beer we offer.
What is your favorite aspect of this beer (flavor, aroma, mouthfeel, etc.)?
I love the way the Rauch malt has integrated itself over the course of barrel-aging. What we were looking for through its inclusion wasn’t smoke necessarily, but rather a nuanced savory note to balance the big, sweet flavors and aromas of maple and dark chocolate.
How popular is this beer among your faithful fans?
It’s been wonderfully well received. This beer offers a comforting combination of flavors that people can relate to, regardless of their familiarity with craft beer. As I write this, the temperature outside dips below freezing, the famous Gorge Winds howl, and the forecast promises snow. On a night like tonight, the comforting qualities of Maple Barrel Aged Smoked Porter are especially appealing.
Where does this beer’s name come from?
It’s named for the recipe and process, as it’s a lightly smoked porter aged in a maple syrup barrel.
Do you know a story – or have a personal story – that revolves around this beer?
This beer was inspired by a donut. I never had much of a sweet tooth, but occasionally my folks would take me to Roth’s IGA for a Tiger Tail, which is a maple bar with chocolate added. I found it greatly improved by two slices of bacon. While this isn’t a dessert beer by any means, we wanted to convey that balance of sweet and savory that I discovered as a kid.
Judge’s Second Opinion
Picture a cold snowy winter night at the log cabin. You’ve just brought in enough firewood for the night and started up a fire in the fireplace. You’re laying back in your chair just in front of the fire- place, and you need something decadent to sip from a snifter. Something complex yet superbly balanced. pFriem’s Maple Barrel Aged Smoked Porter is perfect. This is a really tough beer to make – it could be a big muddled mess if anything was out of balance. But pFriem pulled off the magic and snuck in lots of flavors that all play well together.
Did you know that barrels were used for pretty much everything 200+ years ago? If you wanted to send something (down the street, or around the world by ship), you’d load it up in a barrel. Nails, salt, oil, fish and, of course, wine and beer. Quebec, Canada has a storage facility with $100 million worth of maple syrup stockpiled. So getting ahold of used maple syrup barrels for this beer was a stroke of genius. Typically, a lot of the maple flavor (and all of its sweetness) disappear during beer fermentation, but pFriem figured out how to preserve the maple/vanilla/wood notes perfectly. If you are able to find this beer, buy several. Drink one and spend an hour enjoying it to check out how the flavors and aromas change as the beer warms up – the maple comes out more, and some black licorice shows up along with some slight leather notes like a freshly made belt. Save the other bottles for next week, next year, or several years from now. So here’s the trick:
Open and pour this pFriem beer into a snifter or tulip glass. Take a sip. Let this beer warm up, as it’s amazing how much the complexity changes over that hour. Take small sips – roll it around in your mouth, feel the viscosity and body, feel the carbonation, feel the umami and the hint of soy sauce. This amazing beer is about as close to heaven as you can get. – Nelson Crowle
#11
96
by Randy Scorby
Lupulin River
Knee Deep Brewing Co.
Brewmaster Dean Roberts Talks Lupulin River
Who was responsible for this beer’s recipe?
Our brew team got together and collaborated with a brewery in SoCal. After we completed all sales with the first batch, we made some important changes to the recipe, along with a name change and released it as one of our core beers.
What sets this beer apart from other examples within the style?
When we dry hop this beer, we use many, many pounds of hops per barrel, and the beer is also crystal clear.
What makes this beer truly world class?
For an 8 percent ABV Imperial IPA, this beer is extremely easy to drink and very well balanced. There is a ton of aroma on the nose as well.
What is your favorite aspect of this beer (flavor, aroma, mouthfeel, etc.)?
Intense flavor and aroma from all the Mosaic and Simcoe hops used.
How popular is this beer among your faithful fans?
Lupulin River continues to fluctuate as one of the top three beers in our portfolio. We continue to win awards with this Double IPA and it is a taproom favorite among many locals.
Where does this beer’s name come from?
This Double IPA has very fruity characteristics, and we picked the name “Lupulin River” because Lupulin is the name of the gland in a hop cone that contains the oils and acids that give off this beer’s powerful fruity flavor.
Can you describe this beer in 10 words or less?
Lupulin River is liquid gold with a fruity kick.
Judge’s Second Opinion
Admittedly, being from the Pacific Northwest, I’m a typical hophead who is always seeking out the latest and greatest American-style IPA. Not that long ago, I was a bit frustrated in my attempts to find an example that didn’t have mouth-blistering hop bitterness, completely blowing out the hop aroma and flavor, and making you want to reach into your mouth with your entire hand and scrape the back of your tongue. As time moved on, more and more breweries have forsaken the heavy early bittering additions and are relying on more late-stage hop additions to create a far more balanced and smoother hop bitterness. As most quaffers of America IPAs and Double IPAs will attest, this style of beer has come a long way since the days of the traditional English IPA.
Lupulin River delivered from the first sniff, offering what I expect most from any IPA style: fresh, bright hop aroma that pleases the nose and creates an expectation that the flavor will follow. Being a Double IPA makes it a little more challenging in that the hops are offered some competition by a larger malt bill and a usually floral or spicy alcohol character. The hop bitterness is appropriately assertive for this style but certainly not over the top. You still need high-enough hop bitterness to remind you that it is an IPA, but smooth enough to make the beer pintable. Drinkability can be tricky in the Double and Triple IPAs when trying to combine and balance the powerful characteristics. The beauty of this style is that pretty much any variety of hops (or a complex combination) can be used; brewers are not just limited to the big citrus, pine and resin hops that were commonly used for many years. Other hop varieties are being used quite successfully, especially in combination with traditional American hop varieties.
For those of you who have not tried any offerings from Knee Deep Brewing, I strongly encourage you to do so. They’ve been around for a while, and with brews like Lupulin River they will certainly be around for longer still. – Randy Scorby
#10
96
by James Link
Festbier
KC Bier Co.
Head Brewer and Partner Karlton Graham Talks Festbier
Who was responsible for this beer’s recipe?
I was primarily responsible for the recipe that created this version of our Festbier. However, a very strong assist goes to our founder and managing partner, Steve Holle. Without his vision to brew German-style beer using imported ingredients and traditional brewing methods, I never would have been in the position to refine a Festbier to such a high level.
What sets this beer apart from other examples within the style?
Altogether, I think this beer has such a highly authentic flavor (and is offered to our customers so much fresher than other examples that can be found) that even people who don’t know the style of beer in general very well react very positively to it. A lot of people drink it for the first time and instinctively knew that this was a high-quality beer at the peak of freshness.
What makes this beer truly world class?
100 percent German malt, hops and a yeast strain from a renowned German brewery, decoction mashing, natural carbonation, cold fermentation, and four weeks of lagering make for a classic German-style lager. To save time and money, people sometimes consider taking one shortcut because no one will notice; then they take another and another and, in the end, the beer’s flavor dies a slow death from a thousand small cuts.
What is your favorite aspect of this beer (flavor, aroma, mouthfeel, etc.)?
The best aspect of this beer is that if you really know this style of beer and something about traditional German brewing techniques, I believe you can truly taste that our Festbier is made with German malt and hops, decocted and naturally carbonated. You just simply cannot make a German lager that tastes just right without making it the German way and with German ingredients. This seems like a self-evident statement, but for some reason, very few American craft brewers go to the effort.
How popular is this beer among your faithful fans?
This beer went over so well upon its launch that we ended up making more of it as our fall seasonal after its launch to keep up with demand from our distributors. Initial orders for this beer were eventually doubled in the end. There were several prominent social media comments about its outstanding flavor, and reception at our annual Oktoberfest celebration was very positive. It’s nice to see that if you make truly outstanding beer, people will talk about it and you really can see sales grow.
What’s a good food pairing for this beer?
The most popular food at Oktoberfest, ein halbes Hendel, which is a rotisserie-roasted half chicken.
Judge’s Second Opinion
KC Bier Co. of Kansas City, Missouri has gone to exhausting efforts to bring us their quality Vienna-style Fest Bier. Vienna Lager was the original bottom-fermenting beer first introduced by Austrian Anton Dreher in 1840/1841 after a lengthy study tour of breweries throughout Germany and England.
Traditional German Pilsner and Vienna malts utilized here create a base that marries nicely with German noble hops and a special Bavarian monastic yeast strain that rounds out the flavor profile. The labor-intensive brewing technique
of decoction mashing, which is seldom used in modern brewing, is not spared here and makes a strong presence via the complex and engaging malt character.
The final steps to brewing this beer include a six-week lagering period followed by a natural conditioning process that cuts down on the beer’s carbonic bite and smooths out the mouthfeel considerably.
It should also be noted that this beer adheres strictly to the Reinheitsgebot (The German beer purity law of 1516), which further maintains the style’s originality and KC Bier Co.’s credibility.
Considering the care and effort in creating this traditional example of the Vienna Lager style, it is of little wonder that the end result was a beer of high quality and one that would have made its creator Anton Dreher proud.
This is a beer style that has stood the trials of time for more than 178 years and credit should be given to the brewer in helping to preserve it and present it in its original form to the twenty-first century. – James Link
#9
96
by Brad Darnell
Oatmeal Stout
East Brother Beer Co.
Head Brewer Paul Liszewski Talks Oatmeal Stout
Who was responsible for this beer’s recipe?
Our founding brewer, Chris Coomber, first created this recipe years ago when we were prototyping our 5 core beers in his garage. Since then we’ve tweaked it countless times as we scaled it up and brewed it commercially on our production system. Chris is the kind of brewer who always finds some new detail that can be more precise. I share a lot of Chris’s brewing philosophies in perfecting classic styles, and the beers keep getting better and better.
What sets this beer apart from other examples within the style?
We strive for balance in everything we make and that means we want it to be fun to drink with a clean finish, letting the texture and flavor of the beer draw you back in for another pint. This Oatmeal Stout in particular benefits from a light but flavorful texture in the way it moves over your palate. People tell us they can’t believe they want to drink more than one because they’re expecting it to be heavy and sweet, but they end up right back at the bar, sooner than they expect, ordering another.
Can you describe this beer in 10 words or less?
Roasty, toasty, chocolaty, yum.
What’s a good food pairing for this beer?
I’d start with some BBQ ribs and baked beans or chicken with mole sauce then move onto a dessert of rich, dense chocolate cake. Maybe even throw in an Oatmeal Stout float to boot.
What makes this beer truly world class?
You said it, not us! As with all our beers, we look for precision in the flavor, aroma, and texture of the beer. I don’t know that we’ll ever be totally satisfied with a batch, but with each one we get a clearer idea of what we’re striving towards. And our ingredients, process, and technique are the tools available to improve it each time. We’ve tweaked everything we can think of: from milling to packaging and every step in between. We’re brewing it again soon, and Chris and I already have a couple details we want to experiment with to see if it improves the body. Brewing a world-class beer to us means always trying to make it better.
How popular is this beer among your faithful fans?
It’s been a slow and steady grower for us, and we like that. These days it’s tough for a beer that’s not an IPA or trendy style to lead your portfolio, so our expectations for our Oatmeal Stout have always been conservative. But we’re seeing success with it as people start to drink through our beers and discover the kinds of classic beers we love making. I think they can sense how dedicated we are to those styles. Now we’re seeing an increase in demand for Oatmeal Stout even in the summer months and we’re creating variants and having some fun with it. We’ve done a cask version that people go nuts for in the taproom, and a bourbon barrel-aged version is in the works, which is tasting oaky with that bourbon aroma.
Judge’s Second Opinion
Judging and writing for The Beer Connoisseur allows me, a homebrewer, beer geek and beer traveler, to experience Christmas joy throughout the year as brewers send boxes my way for blind-tasting. Even though my wife unwraps the gifts, I get to experience the beer in my glass without any prejudice; I simply know the style and any special ingredients noted. From there I learn about new breweries or sample something new from a known brewery.
With East Brother, I had not heard of this relatively new brewery, though my tasting experience certainly put this brewery squarely on my radar.
Living in Southern California, one rarely drinks thick, dark stouts given that this is the land of West Coast IPAs and the warm weather does not invite heavier beers the same way cooler weather does. Despite receiving and sampling this beer in late summer’s heat I quickly forgot about the exterior temperature and instead experienced Christmas joy through this fantastic beer.
As an Oatmeal Stout this beer provided a sweet, rich and creamy experience often devoid in others. I found these characteristics refreshing and found myself desiring a rich chocolate dessert to pair with it.
Looking back on the beer I found the de-bittered roasted malt aroma and flavor mixed perfectly with a semi-sweet chocolate note. Dark fruits and leather added depth. The oats provide a light underlying creaminess and rounds the edges of any roast bitterness, leaving a fairly smooth ale. I can still taste this beer as I write and I find myself longing for it on an 86-degree November day. With other Oatmeal Stouts I typically experience one good dimension, say flavor, or two harmonious dimensions, say aroma and flavor; rarely though do I experience one with three fully integrated dimensions: aroma, flavor and mouthfeel. The harmony created by this, along with it being a beautiful beer to look at, make this beer one of the best beers I have experienced in a long time. Well done East Brother! – Brad Darnell
#8
96
by Rick Franckhauser
Highland Pilsner
Highland Brewing Co.
R&D Brewer Trace Redmond Talks Highland Pilsner
What sets this beer apart from other examples within the style?
The Hallertau Blanc hops along with more classic varieties of Saphir, Perle, and Hersbruker lend white grape and spice notes to the aroma. The lager yeast we use provides a nice body, smooth mouthfeel and subtle yet engaging residual sweetness.
What makes this beer truly world class?
We take a lot of pride and put a lot of effort into sourcing and testing our raw materials and monitoring the beer throughout the process to make sure every Highland Pilsner is the best pilsner it can be. We are into beer self-actualization.
How popular is this beer among your faithful fans?
It’s the number one selling beer in our taproom!
Who came up with this beer’s recipe?
Our former brewmaster Hollie Stephenson (now head brewer at the Guinness Open Gate Brewery) first created the recipe for Highland Pilsner.
What’s your favorite aspect of this beer (flavor, aroma, mouthfeel, etc.)?
I love the white grape aroma and how the flavorful Hallertau Blanc hops mingle nicely with the spicy/noble character of the Perle and Hersbrucker varietals. This is a pilsner that’s truly having some fun.
Can you describe this beer in 10 words or less?
Yes please, I’ll have one more!
What’s a good food pairing for this beer?
Shrimp and grits, trout and asparagus or strawberry ice cream.
Judge’s Second Opinion
In a beer culture that exalts extremes, I believe it is important not to miss out on the satisfaction that can be found in the finely balanced classic styles. When properly executed German Pilsners can be one of the most enjoyable beers to pass over your palate. Perhaps our reaction against the fizzy yellow mass-produced American beers that have been marketed as “Pilsner style” and have dominated our society for so very long have tainted our understanding of the style.
With the rise of the craft beer culture, ales have reigned supreme and there is no limit to the amount of hops we expect to encounter. There are, of course, good reasons for these trends; after all, hops are wonderful and ales allow a quick turnaround for the brewer, freeing up valuable fermenter space. Fortunately, trends are ever-changing, and in recent years more and more craft breweries are producing lagers.
Highland Brewing Co.’s Pilsner represents all that is great about a classic German Pils. Highland has managed to do what very few American brewers have been able to accomplish, namely brew a German Pils that can stand up to the great brews of Germany. There is something spectacular about those German beers. The beer showcases an incredibly rich malt profile while remaining light-bodied and highly-attenuated. The floral hop bouquet is crisp, clean, refreshing and balanced toward a well-rounded hop bitterness.
Highland Brewing Co. has managed to brew a classic. Each aspect of the malt and hop flavors are clean distinct and bright. There is a real synergy as each element of the beer that works to complement the other with sublime balance and freshness. The rich malt supports the hop bitterness as the floral and spicy hops add complexity and drinkability that I could never get tired of. It’s one of those beers that after you drink one, you are immediately ready for a second. Slap on your Lederhosen, pour yourself a liter of Highland Pilsner and settle in to some wiener schnitzel and oompah music as your mind drifts off to the Biergarten – Rick Franckhauser
#7
96
by Susan Ruud
pFriem Oud Bruin
pFriem Family Brewers
Co-Founder and Brewmaster Josh Pfriem Talks Oud Bruin
What sets this beer apart from other examples within the style?
We take a fairly traditional approach to this beer; clean fermentation in stainless steel fermentation, then racked into barrels and inoculated with a blend of microflora. The beer ages in foeders and wine barrels for 11⁄2-3 years before blending. After carefully choosing which barrels to blend, the beer then goes through refermentation in the bottle or keg. Conditioning takes up to 3 months to finish. We try to do everything we can to give a nod to tradition, while also always letting our palate drive the beer forward.
What makes this beer truly world class?
We try to do everything we can to make this beer the best it can possibly be, from using high-quality ingredients, excellent brewing processes and taking tender care of it in our wood/cellar program.
What is your favorite aspect of this beer (flavor, aroma, mouthfeel, etc.)?
The rich, light mouthfeel on this beer, with a touch of tartness embraced by tannins, makes this beer so special.
How popular is this beer among your faithful fans?
Folks that are fans of Flanders and Flanders-inspired beers flock to this beer. We get a lot of positive feedback for our Oud Bruin.
Where does this beer’s name come from?
For most beers at pFriem, we just call them what they are. This beer is inspired by the dark tart beers of Flanders and the Burgundies of Belgium, which are mostly known as Oud Bruins.
Is this your “desert island beer?”
This is not my desert island beer, but it does make for a good companion on cold winter nights by the fireplace.
Can you describe this beer in 10 words or less?
Deep crimson, marionberry, apple butter, tobacco, jammy, tannic and lovely.
Do you know a story – or have a personal story – that revolves around this beer?
This beer was inspired by my first trip to Belgium. Traveling the country by bike, I was able to sample many of the great Flanders Reds and Oud Bruins of Flanders. The highlight was walking the foeder halls of Rodenbach. Many years later at pFriem, we purchased our own foeders that are now home to our Belgium-inspired Oud Bruin.
What’s a good food pairing for this beer?
Duck Confit served with brussels sprouts and mustard sauce with a side of pommel de Terre a la Sarladaise.
Judge’s Second Opinion
Designed to be similar to a Flanders Oud Bruin pFriem Family Brewers in Hood River, Oregon did a wonderful job on this sour beer. This brew poured a lovely dark brown/deep copper color with striking red highlights, strikingly clear, and a huge, light tan head leaving behind beautiful white lacing around the glass. This was a gorgeous beer that had me more than ready to dive in.
The upfront aroma was sour and lightly lactic yet with plenty of rich, aromatic melanoidin malt elements along with some sour cherry and light oak and vanilla notes tying it all together. This Oud Bruin has a rich medium body, is pleasantly warming and featured medium carbonation and a very smooth finish – making it a superb example of the style. The rich malt, sour cherry and sherry-like notes in the flavor were heavenly, finishing very smooth with a sweet and tart impression. This is a very complex and wonderful beer. With every sip you just want to keep drinking more. I could imagine drinking this beer with some freshly steamed seafood such as lobster or shrimp dipped in butter or perhaps a rich, fatty duck dish, but it would also pair well with a nicely seasoned rib steak served with a creamy vegetable sauce.
For those that aren’t meat eaters, this would pair beautifully with almost anything served with a rich cream sauce, from delicate white fish to something more complex such as a creole cream sauce over chicken or pork. If you don’t want anything too complicated and want to opt for comfort food instead, serve this complex and well-brewed Oud Bruin with a triple-cheese macaroni and cheese dish.
This delightful beer would also be perfect for just kicking back by the fireplace and enjoying the craftsmanship that went into making it. I could imagine a romantic evening with your significant other or sitting around playing games with a group of friends. This a such a complex and flavorful beer that it leaves so many options open. – Susan Ruud
#6
96
by Rick Franckhauser
Rupture
Odell Brewing Co.
Chief Operating Officer Brendan McGivney Talks Rupture
Who was responsible for this beer’s recipe?
All recipe development at Odell Brewing Co. is a group effort from our R&D team. We are a proudly independent, employee-owned brewery, and we truly believe we achieve the best results through collaboration.
What sets this beer apart from other examples within the style?
We did not know of any other Fresh Grind Ale styles in the market, so we wanted to share our experience with the process beyond our pilot system and taproom.
What makes this beer truly world class?
The hop farmers! It is thanks to their hard work and dedication that we have access to this incredible raw material. We just wanted to unlock the potential of the hop cone immediately – before adding it to the wort and beer. We utilize whole hop flowers as well as pelletized hops in our other beers, but we felt we could unlock maximum flavor and aroma potential with freshly ground flowers in Rupture. We did this by installing a custom hammer mill at our brewery. The whole flower hops are ‘ruptured’ in the hammer mill and are immediately thrown into the brew.
What is your favorite aspect of this beer (flavor, aroma, mouthfeel, etc.)?
The uniquely fresh hop aroma and flavor, which transports me back to the middle of a hop field during hop harvest!
How popular is this beer among your faithful fans?
Rupture has become our #3 seller since its launch (behind only 90 Shilling Ale and Odell IPA), so people seem to dig it. We kept the malt bill light and the IBUs down to show off the hops while still making it more approachable to those intimidated by most IPAs.
Where does this beer’s name come from?
The name comes from the brewing process. We installed a custom hammer-mill at our brewery which we used to rupture the lupulin glands in the fresh whole flower hops. Rupturing those lupulin glands releases that bright hop
aroma you find in the beer.
Can you describe this beer in 10 words or less?
Citrus, floral and pine aromas with a clean, dry finish.
Do you know a story – or have a personal story – that revolves around this beer?
We built a custom hammer mill at the brewery to grind the hops for this beer. We realize it might be a rather inefficient process, but we think it makes for a rather extraordinary beer. What we grind that day, we use that day. This is how Rupture gets its incredibly fresh aroma.
Judge’s Second Opinion
I’m old enough to remember when American Pale Ale was “the new thing” in the world of beer. Microbrewery was the name given for the small breweries that were starting up and word was getting out about these crazy new hoppy American beer styles. Sometime in the late 80s I read about a homebrewer that started a small brewery called Sierra Nevada that was putting out a hoppy American version of a pale ale. It would be more than a year later before I would actually be able to sample a Sierra Nevada Pale Ale for the first time. I remember it vividly because the hop aroma blew me away. I had been homebrewing for a while at that point and, like all other homebrewers in those days, had used Cascade hops in my own attempts to brew an APA, but I had never experienced them like what I found in that Sierra Nevada. That fresh grapefruit and subtle malt sweetness, the firm bitterness, so well balanced and drinkable.
In the months and years to follow APAs were the number one style in the microbreweries and brewpubs that were springing up around the country. As time went by and American craft beer drinkers’ cravings for ever-increasing hop levels grew, APAs served as the gateway to American IPAs, Double IPAs and a plethora of IPA variants. As our palates acclimated to the increased hop levels, some found APAs to be the craft beer equivalent to light lagers.
Fortunately, we still get to have our minds blown by a well-crafted APA sometimes. When I first brought my glass of Odell Brewing’s Rupture APA to my nose, I was transported back to that first Sierra Nevada experience. Not that Rupture is similar but the wow factor struck me in the same manner. Super fresh, grassy in a pleasant fresh way, herbal and lemony aromatics are so inviting your mouth waters in expectation. The flavor does not disappoint. Well balanced with enough malt to keep it from moving into the IPA realm.
While Rupture may be at the high end of the style range it is still perhaps the best example of the style I’ve come across in many years. – Rick Franckhauser
#5
96
by Michael Heniff
Nitro Irish Stout
Breckenridge Brewery
President and Brewmaster Todd Usry Talks Nitro Irish Stout
Who was responsible for this beer’s recipe?
This recipe actually originated in 2017 as a collaboration with Boundary Brewing, a really great brewery out in Ireland. We loved the overseas partnership and the beer it resulted in, but this year we decided to really make it our own. Still inspired by the Irish origins of the style, we took the recipe in-house and added what we like to call a little Colorado spirit.
What sets this beer apart from other examples within the style?
I think what sets this beer apart from other nitro dry Irish stouts is the truly notable roasted malt flavor. Our Nitro Irish Stout is smooth and incredibly drinkable, but that doesn’t mean it’s lacking bold character. Those dark roasted malts really embrace your taste buds and you can tell that each batch was crafted with care and expertise. That’s what we were going for, at least.
What makes this beer truly world class?
A few things. One, it’s trueness to style. We feel our Nitro Irish Stout exemplifies exactly what a dry Irish stout was made to taste like. Two, the quality of ingredients. We never skimp on the perfect malt, and with this recipe in particular we labored to source the ideal Irish barley. Three is the Nitro innovation. We spent a lot of time really nailing the widget in our nitro-on-the-go cans to make that smooth draft experience available in cans you can easily pick up at the store. That was important to us. We’ve also taken measures to make sure bar and restaurant owners were educated on the best way to install, manage and pour a great nitro stout. This beer is so perfect for having a few (or more) in your favorite neighborhood bar, and we love providing that for folks.
What is your favorite aspect of this beer (flavor, aroma, mouthfeel, etc.)?
That is a tough one. I’d have to say my favorite aspect is how all the elements come together in such a great harmony. The silky mouthfeel from the nitro and the dark roasted flavors from the malts are seriously – excuse my cheesiness – a match made in beer heaven. So, overall, it’s that balance of powerful flavor and easy drinkability that we go for with every beer at Breckenridge Brewery, and this one really nails it.
How popular is this beer among your faithful fans?
We’ve been so happy with the feedback we’re getting on Nitro Irish Stout, especially with the loyal fans. Again, this beer really hits home what Breckenridge beers are all about – something that’s really good to drink, no matter who you are or what you’re doing. It seems like most people agree and we’re excited about that. We’re also hoping the flavor quality and the cool, visual factor of the nitro cascade will introduce this beer, and Breckenridge Brewery, to some new people and make some new loyal fans. That’s what it’s all about, surprising people with good beer and introducing them to more.
Judge’s Second Opinion
This beer is different from other examples within its style due to the way it is served. Carbon dioxide is the most abundant dissolved gas that is found in almost all beer styles. Carbon dioxide is a by-product of fermentation of which some remains soluble in the finished beer. In the kegging, bottling, and canning process, additional carbon dioxide may be added to achieve the desired carbonation level. When the beer is poured, some of the carbon dioxide vaporizes from the beer. As the carbon dioxide vaporizes, the head forms on the beer and other aromatics are scrubbed from the beer to the headspace of the glass, which becomes the aroma. The remaining carbon dioxide in the beer is the carbonation that provides the prickly mouthfeel and adds a slight acidity (carbonic acid) to the flavor.
“Nitro” beers use nitrogen or a combination of nitrogen and carbon dioxide (also called “beer gas”) for serving the beer. Nitrogen is much less soluble in beer than carbon dioxide. When properly poured, the nitrogen vaporizes with very little gas remaining in the beer. In “nitro” beers, the head of the beer is formed, and aromatics are scrubbed into the aroma but the “nitro” leaves little or no “carbonation” in the beer. The result of “nitro” poured beers is a smoother (less bubbly and less acidic) mouthfeel than a similar beer that is conditioned or poured with only carbon dioxide.
Breckenridge Nitro Irish Stout is traditionally smooth and creamy from the lower-than-typical beer carbonation level of “nitro” beers. The beer measures up at 4.8 percent ABV, which is a bit higher than the typical alcohol content for the style but still remains quite sessionable.
What sets Breckenridge Nitro Irish Stout apart from the classic Irish examples is the depth of malt flavor. This stout displays a complex malt profile of roasted, espresso, and dark chocolate over a background of toasted elements, displaying layers of rich malt flavors that are more typical of stronger stouts. Be sure to seek out this flavorful, sessionable stout. – Michael Heniff
#4
96
by Dan Martich
Jewbelation 22
Shmaltz Brewing Co.
Founder Jeremy Cowan Talks Jewbelation 22
Who was responsible for this beer’s recipe?
As has happened for 22 years, I love playing the role of art director to talented and motivated brewers who bring their professional focus to the nitty-gritty recipe development. This year, our head brewer Chris “Duffy” DuFrain and my longtime friend and new on-call brewmaster Micah Krichinsky (graduate of Master Brewers program in Davis, CA and half a decade brewing with Dogfish Head) finalized the recipe with a nod to Jewbelation recipes of the past from our 11th Anniversary, 16th Anniversary and 20th Anniversary. This year, 11 malts, 11 hops, 11 percent ABV to celebrate 22 years; it looks like we nailed it and we’re super happy about the outcome!
What sets this beer apart from other examples within the style?
A perfect question because Jewbelation has never been a style! Not a porter, not a stout, not a barleywine… the Jewbelation series is essentially a triple brown ale riffing off the base of our Messiah Nut Brown Ale. Everything jacked up in equal parts malts, hops, and ABV for a truly unique flavor profile.
What makes this beer truly world class?
Anybody who has worked with me knows that I’m so proud of the recipes, uniqueness and execution of our brewing tribe. I’m so excited about the amazing complexity that this Jewbelation series has resulted in year after year. I am proud to serve these beers alongside so many world-class beers, so many of my favorites both locally, nationally and internationally.
What is your favorite aspect of this beer (flavor, aroma, mouthfeel, etc.)?
Every year my favorite element is the adventure – what a unique way to structure a massive American Strong Ale! I think I’m probably most attracted to the malt bill with complex caramel, toasted and roasty notes, but every year the big blast of repeated hop additions brings together very compelling layers of curiosity.
How popular is this beer among your faithful fans?
Year after year since our eighth anniversary introducing the Jewbelation series, so many enthusiastic friends and customers come back to us with stories of enjoying, sharing, saving and savoring this wonderful beer lineup. This series was crucial in the development of our line of extreme beers both in technical expertise and outrageous flavors – a huge part of our evolution getting us to where we are now.
Can you describe this beer in 10 words or less?
“He knows changes aren’t permanent, but change is.”
Judge’s Second Opinion
This beer reminds me of a similar beer I brewed many years ago. In anticipation of moving I wanted to use up most of my residual brewing ingredients. All kinds of malts were added, and the result was a deeply malt-layered beer with an ABV at around 10 percent ABV. My dad and brother came over one night, and we proceeded to drink the beer and chat into the wee hours of the morning. I had to work the next day, and I must admit it was a painful morning and rest of the day after imbibing such a hefty brew!
The malt richness of Shmaltz’s Jewbelation 22 makes it ideal for winter sipping. It is complex with notes of caramel, nuttiness and toffee. The fruity esters complement the malt notes incredibly well with dark raisins and dark sugar depth. There’s a low degree of hops just for balance without adding too much in the way of flavor or bitterness. Some other commercial examples may focus on the hops coming forward, but here it’s all about the layered flavors of the malts.
A stick-to-your-ribs kind of brew that would pair well with just about anything on your dinner table. Although not a spiced traditional Christmas beer, this beer’s immense malt quotient speaks to the holidays in the same way. – Dan Martich
#3
97
by Michael Bury
Dusseldorf Alt
Seedstock Brewing Co.
Owner Jason Abbott Talks Dusseldorf Alt
Who was responsible for this beer’s recipe?
Our roots are in embedded in our old-world, family recipes, and the new recipes are still the result of family collaboration. This recipe was the brain-child of the three Seedstock partners: head brewer and co-owner Jason Abbott, co-owner Ron Abbott and co-owner Frank Thomas.
What sets this beer apart from other examples within the style?
Altbiers have a growing cult following in the U.S., mostly led by German-style breweries. However, many of these are brewed as a Northern German style alt, which are sweeter and lighter in terms of taste and color compared to the “Dusseldorf” style. We brew our Altbier in the Dusseldorf style, meaning it’s much more bitter and darker than the North German style, while still maintaining the quintessential altbier malty flavor.
What makes this beer truly world class?
In recent years, here in the U.S., altbiers – alt meaning old – are old-world beers that have taken on new life in America. With our Altbier, we’re paying homage to our Eastern European family roots while giving our customers something they rarely see – a beer that is truly malty and bitter at the same time. These flavors are rarely experienced together in a balanced manner, but the altbier makes it possible.
What is your favorite aspect of this beer (flavor, aroma, mouthfeel, etc.)?
From a taste standpoint, we love how the malty mouthfeel is balanced with the bitterness. Ron’s favorite thing about this beer is that it reminds him of a trip he took to Germany several years ago where he first tried a Dusseldorf- style Alt. We ‘tip our cap’ to those great beers in Dusseldorf and hope that we show them respect by crafting a good altbier as well.
How popular is this beer among your faithful fans?
Among our most faithful customers, it is very popular. Many people who are familiar with the style say that our Altbier is their favorite on the market, and that it reminds them of altbiers they had in Germany – and we are very humbled by those compliments.
Is this your “desert island beer?”
We could drink any beer on a desert island!
Can you describe this beer in 10 words or less?
Malty with a slightly fruity aroma, clean and assertive hop bitterness.
What’s a good food pairing for this beer?
Anything with gravy!
Judge’s Second Opinion
Asking your server at your local watering hole if they have any Altbiers available for consumption should result in an eyebrow-raised, confused look. But they’re a class of hybrid beers (ales fermented cooler than normal or lagers fermented warmer) that are nothing more than bitter brown beers. American Browns come close to the style, but the type and amount of late hopping really sets these two styles apart from one another.
Thankfully, I was introduced to the style by a friend of mine who just so happens to be of German descent. And has been to Germany. And has won multiple Gold medals in the category at several homebrew competitions. I can’t thank him enough for breaking that barrier for me and exposing me to this approachable beer style.
Seedstock’s Dusseldorf Alt should appeal to a wide range of individuals. Like malt? No problem. The biscuit, bready, brown bread crust and light caramel malt will appeal to malt heads. How about hops? The moderate hop bitterness, clean, crisp finish and lightly spicy hop profile should appeal to hop lovers.
What’s great about the style, and especially Seedstock’s version, is its drinkability. There’s an abundance of character from both the malt and hops to provide plenty of intrigue to the drinker, but because of its clean, dry finish, the drinker can easily go back for another sip time and time again. One aspect of the beer that really rounds out the flavor is the presence of Maillard products, which includes melanoidins. These bread crust-like flavors help to round out the sweeter aspects of the beer and provide a bridge to the hop bitterness.
Finally, I was quite impressed, after I judged the beer, when I found out that it traveled in a crowler from Colorado to Pennsylvania without any degradation. It’s a shame that currently you can only get the beer in the immediate Colorado area. However, this supports the notion of patronizing your local brewery, and anyone in the Denver area would be more than satisfied by a visit.– Michael Bury
#2
97
by Sean Coughlin
Mexican Empire
Arches Brewing
Founder and Brewmaster Jamey Adams Talks Mexican Empire
Who was responsible for this beer’s recipe?
The Mexican Empire recipe was developed by chemists Jeff Dake and Jamey Adams as homebrewers well over 8 years ago. Jeff is now Arches’ director of quality and has focused heavily on the specific lager yeast strain used to ferment this beer while Jamey, the brewmaster, has been obsessed with the chemistry of the water that builds the foundation for the flavor of this beer.
What sets this beer apart from other examples within the style?
Simply stated, Arches’ philosophy of brewing and the water. We brew each beer as if we were in the host country of origin. For Mexican Empire, this requires us to build the water profile to match that of the region surrounding Vienna. Our water is sourced from an underground river system 450 feet beneath the brewery. This water is extremely soft and devoid of any minerals or chemicals that could affect the subtle flavors of the Vienna style. The mineral profile of the brewing water sets the stage for the complex interactions between malt and hop flavors. The nearly 98 percent Vienna malt grain bill dominates the initial aroma and taste while the German noble hops finish the beer without stealing the show.
What makes this beer truly world class?
Above all, it’s the attention to detail by the brewhouse staff. When we planned to create the most authentic Vienna Lager in the U.S., we treated it like a scientific experiment. We asked ourselves what does a brewery in Austria have access to that we in the States do not and the answer was Viennese water, German grains and noble hops. We then created a plan to source or create those things and then meticulously logged our batches over the last 6 years – changing one thing at a time and comparing those to the BJCP style guidelines and to exemplary beers from this style.
What’s your favorite aspect of this beer (flavor, aroma, etc.)?
The aroma and flavor that comes from using Vienna malt as the base, the balance of malt and bitterness that is only obtainable by using the clean profile of noble hops and finally the drinkability of this slightly darker-than-amber beer that surprises most first-time drinkers.
Can you describe this beer in 10 words or less?
Deep amber, nutty and bready malt specificity, noble hops subtlety.
Do you know a story – or have a personal story – that revolves around this beer?
My wife was following a strict Paleo diet for 6+ years that excluded all beer. She slipped up one afternoon and it took a week to wean her off the power of the “Mexican Empire!”
Is this your “desert island beer?”
No, but it is great on the beach!
Judge’s Second Opinion
Vienna lagers are sadly in short supply throughout the United States, but what Arches Brewing has delivered via their Mexican Empire will hopefully help to change that. Their newest year-round offering is undoubtedly a world-class example of a classic style and a beer that is accessible to palates of both craft connoisseurs and beer newbies alike.
The most striking element of this beer is the expression of malt. There is incredible richness for such a simple beer. White bread, bread crust, toasted bread and a touch of nuttiness result in a beer that exemplifies the word “malty.” It is balanced by enough hop bitterness to keep it from seeming sweet but restrained enough to showcase the malt profile – this balance is easier said than done. The exceptionally clean lager fermentation results in a well-attenuated beer that also allows the malt to shine.
Mexican Empire offers a more robust malt character and a little more hop bitterness than most other Viennas. Many Vienna lagers are either brewed with adjuncts such as corn or rice, which will lighten the malt character, or may be brewed with caramel malts to help achieve an amber color that can result in too much residual sweetness for the style. Mexican Empire can be utilized in a variety of settings – a beer for the casual drinker, a beer for the discerning palate, or a great offering to pair with food. This Vienna Lager has such a profound breadiness that it can essentially work as a carbohydrate/starch substitute at your next meal. The rich malt profile will also help to temper any level of spice – appropriately making it a great choice for pairing with Mexican or Tex-Mex cuisine.
If you have not had the pleasure of discovering this underappreciated classic style, seek this beer out. If you are a Vienna lager aficionado, seek this beer out. If you have never had a craft beer in your life but are curious as to what the excitement is all about, seek this beer out. Mexican Empire is truly world-class and personally hope it inspires a Vienna lager revival. –Sean Coughlin
#1
98
by Michael Bury
Privat
Brauhaus Riegele
Owner and World Champion Beer Sommelier Sebastian Priller-Riegele Talks Privat
Who was responsible for this beer’s recipe?
This beer is brewed in honor of my great-grandfather, the Commerzienrat Riegele, who was a brewing legend in our small city. It is a very old recipe, but, of course, every brew is a puzzle out of thousands of parts, and we take care of each single kernel of malt!
What’s your favorite aspect of this beer (flavor, aroma, etc.)?
The secret is the perfect balance. Privat is rich in body, but not heavy. It is malty in flavor, but with a nice light, hoppy aroma. It is easy-drinking and refreshing yet extremely complex all at once.
Where does this beer’s name come from?
Sebastian Riegele was a very famous brewer and patron of the city of Augsburg. To honor him, we received the title ‘Commerzienrat’ which was only given to the most outstanding citizens of that time period. In his honor, we brew the Commerzienrat Riegele Privat.
Is this your “desert island beer?”
Yes! In fact, I’ll be sure to pack some Commerzienrat yeast with me so that I’ll be able to have an unlimited supply on the island!
Do you know a story – or have a personal story – that revolves around this beer?
My Dad and I love to celebrate special moments with the Commerzienrat. I will never forget seeing the eyes of my friends when I pulled out four bottles of Privat from my backpack after a long and exhausting hike in the Alps. Sure they were heavy, but it was worth it!
What’s a good food pairing for this beer?
A Bavarian Pretzel! Tastes good and makes you even more thirsty for Privat!
What sets this beer apart from other examples within the style?
A perfect beer is always a puzzle out of thousands of parts, so you always need to go the extra mile. In our case, we do yeast counting with select yeast strains out of our own yeast collection, we use only original mineral water out of our 214-meter fountain, our method of husk separation makes the beer’s finish smooth and our storage at exactly 0° Celsius gives the beer the final touch.
What makes this beer truly world class?
Three main ingredients: Passion, dedication and knowledge! They make all the difference!
How popular is this beer among your faithful fans?
It’s our number one beer without any doubt!
Judge’s Second Opinion
German Pilsners seem to be the IPAs of the lager world nowadays. Many American breweries seem to take the hop-forward nature of the style to the extreme with massive amounts of late hop additions. What results is essentially an IPL, not a Pilsner.
Thankfully, the correction is an easy one and a brewer needs to look no further than the name of the style. Pilsner, or Pils malt, should form the backbone of the beer upon which the hops have a landscape to express themselves. In reality though, this is more difficult than it sounds. As one of the lightest kilned base malts, Pilsner malt lacks the immediate, colorful character that Munich malt demonstrates; it takes a skilled brewer’s hands to coax its character out of the kernel. Also, the specific type of barley that’s used in a maltster’s Pilsner product also makes a major difference.
So why did I spend so much time on Pilsner malt? Because Brauhaus Riegele’s Privat showcases that malt varietal expertly with an appropriate amount of German noble hops. Privat featured a near-perfect balance of malt and hops that I can only imagine would be perfect coming straight off the tap from the brewery. It wasn’t just the typical grainy flavor and aroma you’d expect but rather the honey-like, graham crackery character that was so pronounced even a non-beer drinker would’ve picked it up. All the while, the delicate floral, spicy hops provided a perfect counterpoint to the malt. It’s also
worthwhile mentioning what wasn’t there.
The exquisitely clean lager fermentation afforded no sulfur, no diacetyl and no esters while providing a properly crisp, well-attenuated beer. That’s no easy task by itself.
There are very few beers out there that can provide a transformative experience and Privat was one of those. I could easily envision myself wearing lederhosen and drinking a boot or a liter of it in a German beer hall with my close friends (or soon to be friends) around me. Personally, I’m looking forward to the next time I can order a pull of it. Prost! – Michael Bury
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