Top 100 Beers of 2019
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Editorial Dept.
Each year, we collect the highest-scoring beers evaluated in the Official Review and combine them into a list of the finest examples. 2019 saw the continuation of the hazy IPA trend into being a hallmark style with real staying power, as many of our hoppy IPAs, pale ales, double IPAs and session IPAs featured hazy, unfiltered elements.
All manner of sour beers, ranging from goses to Flanders red ales to wild specialty beers were reviewed by our judges, and they enjoyed the impressive depth of flavor and mouth-puckering tartness that many sours provide.
Belgian beers were exceptionally well-reviewed this year, with our judges’ favorite styles being the bigger, boozier Belgians like tripels, golden strongs and dark strongs. Speaking of strong and boozy, specialty wood-aged and wood-aged beers aged in all manner of barrels continued their popularity among our judges in 2019.
We hope you enjoy reading about the Top 100 Beers of 2019 and that you use this list to help navigate the vast expanse of beers available today.
ABOUT
The Official Review is conducted in a single blind tasting format that adheres to the Beer Judge Certification Program 2015 Style Guidelines. This method provides the best opportunity to rely on facts and to avoid favoritism, ensuring a level playing field for all brewers. It serves both the industry and the consumer to have unbiased and objective scores from qualified experts.
In effort to provide the most credible evaluations, The Beer Connoisseur hand-selects judges with a minimum BJCP ranking of “National” or Master Cicerone®. Judges are required to work with an assistant that handles beer prior to evaluation, and breweries are not allowed to solicit judges directly.
In the single blind tasting format, judges are presented with a chilled, properly poured beer and given its style category. Scoring is then done on the following basis using a 100-point scale: Aroma (24 points), Appearance (6 points), Flavor (40 points), Mouthfeel (10 points) and Overall Impression (20 points).
The score breakdown is as follows:
100 to 96: World Class – You need this beer in your life.
95 to 91: Exceptional – Don’t hesitate.
90 to 86: Very Good – A brew to savor.
85 to 75: Average – Somewhat unimpressive.
74 and below: Not Recommended – Just walk away.
#100
91
by Sal Mortillaro II
OG: Cascade
Wild Leap Brew Co.
#99
91
by Michael McGuire
Alpha Abstraction Vol. 5
Wild Leap Brew Co.
#98
91
by Brad Darnell
Red Lager
East Brother Beer Co.
#97
91
by David Sapsis
La Fin du Monde
Unibroue
#96
91
by Michael Bury
Blanche de Chambly
Unibroue
#95
92
by Michael Heniff
Piraat
Brouwerij van Steenberge
#94
92
by Michael Heniff
Urban Lumberjack
WestFax Brewing Co.
#93
92
by Michael Heniff
Materfamilias
Mother’s Brewing Co.
#92
92
by Jason Johnson
Ralph
The Ale Apothecary
#91
92
by Brian Eichhorn
Beyond Resin
Upland Brewing Co.
#90
92
by Pat Mulloy
Dark Apparition
Jackie O’s Brewery
#89
92
by Rick Franckhauser
Export Lager
pFriem Family Brewers
#88
92
by Tracy Hensley
Notorious P.O.G. Berliner Weisse
Stone Brewing Co.
#87
92
by Michael Heniff
A Tout le Monde
Unibroue
#86
92
by Michael McGuire
Irrationally Exuberant
Cape May Brewing Co.
#85
92
by Nelson Crowle
Chocolate Peanut Butter Milk Stout
Garage Brewing Co.
#84
92
by Rick Franckhauser
Pike Pils
Pike Brewing Co.
#83
92
by Scott Birdwell
Two Juicy
Two Roads Brewing Co.
#82
92
by James Link
I Need S’more Brownie Batter Batch #1
Pontoon Brewing
#81
92
by Nelson Crowle
Hazy IPA
pFriem Family Brewers
#80
92
by Michael Heniff
Bourbon Barrel Aged Concrete Ship
Cape May Brewing Co.
#79
92
by Jason Johnson
Tangerine Deuce Coupe DIPA
Garage Brewing Co.
#78
92
by Michael Bury
Semillon Barrel Aged Alani
Reformation Brewery
#77
92
by Jim Koebel
Darker Subject Matter
Monday Night Brewing
#76
92
by Michael Heniff
Synopsis Dark Sour Cherry
Area Two Experimental Brewing
#75
92
by Rick Franckhauser
Red Flag
Heavy Seas Beer
#74
92
by Michael McGuire
Alpha Abstraction Vol. 8
Wild Leap Brew Co.
#73
92
by Michael Bury
Sour Alani
Reformation Brewery
#72
92
by Michael Heniff
COEDO Shiro
COEDO Brewery
#71
92
by Michael Bury
Don de Dieu
Unibroue
#70
92
by Rodney A. Tillinghast
THK – Tripel Honey Kriek
De Proef Brouwerij
#69
92
by Michael Heniff
TROOPER Sun & Steel
Robinsons Brewery
#68
93
by Joseph Formanek
Maui Waui IPA
Altamont Beer Works
#67
93
by Michael Heniff
Blueberry Spaceship Box
Superstition Meadery
#66
93
by Scott Birdwell
Double Dust
Pure Project Brewing
#65
93
by Jim Koebel
Medlock IPA
Six Bridges Brewing
#64
93
by Jason Johnson
Good Behavior
Odell Brewing Co.
#63
93
by Sal Mortillaro II
Barrel Aged Helios
Pontoon Brewing
#62
93
by Michael Bury
Sangiovese Barrel Aged Alani
Reformation Brewery
#61
93
by James Link
Fruit Cup Vol. 1
Pontoon Brewing
#60
93
by Sean Coughlin
Cloaks & Mirrors
Monday Night Brewing
#59
93
by Jason Johnson
Buenaveza Salt & Lime Lager
Stone Brewing Co.
#58
93
by Michael McGuire
Fistful of Cake
Monday Night Brewing
#57
93
by Michael McGuire
Truck Chaser Creamsicle Double IPA
Wild Leap Brew Co.
#56
93
by Sal Mortillaro
Prize Inside
Wild Leap Brew Co.
#55
93
by Dan Martich
Pervasive Species
Monday Night Brewing
#54
93
by Dan Martich
Big Softy
Monday Night Brewing
#53
93
by Tracy Hensley
Mosaic Double IPA
Belching Beaver Brewery
#52
93
by Rick Franckhauser
Brewers’ Pale Ale Galaxy Hop Blend
Anchor Brewing Co.
#51
93
by Brad Darnell
Belgian-Style Tripel
East Brother Beer Co.
#50
93
by Sean Coughlin
Bohemian Riot
Arches Brewing
#49
93
by Brad Darnell
Red IPA
East Brother Beer Co.
#48
93
by Michael Heniff
Peche
pFriem Family Brewers
#47
93
by Nelson Crowle
Brett Saison
pFriem Family Brewers
#46
93
by Rick Franckhauser
Big Boss Lager
Big Boss Brewing Co.
#45
93
by Joseph Formanek
Double Barreled Maple Stout
Avery Brewing Co.
#44
93
by Michael Heniff
Table Terroir
Area Two Experimental Brewing
#43
93
by Michael Bury
Ephemere Pomme
Unibroue
#42
94
by Sal Mortillaro II
Timely Surrender
Archetype Brewing Co.
#41
94
by Richard Wong
Twain
Upland Brewing Co.
#40
94
by David Sapsis
Little Red Cap
Grimm Brothers Brewhouse
#39
94
by Rick Franckhauser
Jammer
Sixpoint Brewery
#38
94
by Michael Heniff
Swipe Light
Southern Tier Brewing Co.
#37
94
by Jason Johnson
Syringa Pale Ale
Boise Brewing Co.
#36
94
by Pat Mulloy
Two Stall
Ahnapee Brewery
#35
94
by Joseph Formanek
Found
Upland Brewing Co.
#34
94
by Joseph Formanek
Entwined
Upland Brewing Co.
#33
94
by Michael Heniff
Life Hopquatic
Melvin Brewing
#32
94
by Pat Mulloy
Pockets of Sunlight
Jackie O’s Brewery
#31
94
by Michael Heniff
Chimay Grand Reserve
Abbaye de Scourmont
#30
94
by Pat Mulloy
Oktoberfest
Ahnapee Brewery
#29
94
by Brian Eichhorn
Bourbon Barrel-Aged Doppelbock
Seedstock Brewery
#28
94
by Michael Bury
Currant Events
Monday Night Brewing
#27
94
by John C. Tull
Salty Crew Blonde Ale
Coronado Brewing Co.
#26
94
by Richard Wong
Piston Pump-Kin Porter
Garage Brewing Co.
#25
94
by Joseph Formanek
White Rascal
Avery Brewing Co.
#24
94
by Rick Franckhauser
Space Needle IPA
Pike Brewing Co.
#23
94
by Tracy Hensley
Stone Farking Wheaton W00tstout 2019
Stone Brewing Co.
#22
94
by Michael Heniff
Lundi
Monday Night Brewing
#21
94
by Pat Mulloy
Enter Night Pilsner
Stone Brewing Co.
#20
94
by Michael Heniff
Samuel Adams Utopias 2019
The Boston Beer Co.
#19
95
by Brian Eichhorn
Flensburger Dunkel
Flensburger Brauerei
#18
95
by Richard Wong
Bockness Monster
Upland Brewing Co.
#17
95
by Sal Morillaro II
Pig Porter
Right Brain Brewery
#16
95
by Joseph Formanek
Juice Above the Clouds
Altamont Beer Works
#15
95
by Nelson Crowle
Mirror Universe
Fair State Brewing Cooperative
#14
95
by Susan Ruud
Belgian-Style Blonde Ale
pFriem Family Brewers
#13
95
by Dan Martich
Sticky Icky Icky
Short’s Brewing Co.
#12
95
by David Sapsis
Golden Coffee Pale
pFriem Family Brewers
#11
96
by Richard Wong
Juicy Harvest
Upland Brewing Co.
Head of Brewing Operations and COO Pete Batule Talks Juicy Harvest
Who was responsible for this beer’s recipe?
We have been making an annual wet-hopped Harvest Ale for many years at Upland. While in previous years it was a traditional American-style Pale Ale, this year Patrick Lynch, our lead brewer, decided to adjust the recipe to achieve a hazy/juicy-style IPA.
What sets this beer apart from other examples within the style?
There are few examples of this style that use locally sourced wet hops to make a juicy/hazy-style IPA. Our team heads up to the south side of Indianapolis to help harvest the whole cone hops, and then we immediately drive the hops down to Bloomington to use at the brewery. The nuanced flavors we find from wet hops are very difficult to achieve with traditional pelletized hops.
What makes this beer truly world-class?
Well-balanced hop aroma, bitterness and malt character. The creaminess and carbonation level are also dialed in to give it the perfect finish.
What is your favorite aspect of this beer (flavor, aroma, mouthfeel, etc.)?
The tropical aroma along with the creaminess are my two favorite elements of the beer. It is also very rewarding to work directly with local hop farmers. We can tour the fields throughout the growing season and help partake in the actual harvest itself.
How popular is this beer among your faithful fans?
Our Harvest Ale is a recipe we’ve been making for many years and everyone looks forward to how the beer will evolve over time. Each year we experiment with new hops or processes to deliver a remarkable drinking experience.
Judge’s Second Opinion
Upland Brewing Company’s Juicy Harvest IPA is a wonderful beer made via the wet hop process. The hops used in this beer are from the Indiana area, which is somewhat surprising, considering it is not known for its hop production. Harvesting of hops takes place from late August all the way to September. It is equivalent to the harvesting of grapes during wine production.
Most hops are processed as dry (hops that are dried in the kiln and presented in pellets and/or whole form). Fresh hops (wet hops) were used in the brewing process of this beer instead of dry hops. Wet hops are highly perishable and must be used within twenty-four hours of harvesting, because they expire extremely quickly. It is further challenging to use fresh hops because they are less concentrated, and so it takes more of them to achieve the same flavors as their dry counterpart. Also, fresh hops impart a grassy or green flavor rather than the heavy bitterness that dry hops provide – a flavor more typically associated with modern IPAs.
Clearly, this hop farm was in close proximity to Upland Brewing Co., and the beer that was produced via that fascinating brewing process was a delightfully hazy and fresh wet hop IPA. It poured a beautiful light yellow, milky hue and featured a nice grassy aroma and well-balanced flavors of malt sweetness and bitterness. I got hints of tropical fruit (pineapple), and it’s easy to see why it is labeled as “juicy.” The bitterness was not harsh like it is with many IPAs; instead it was rather smooth from start to finish, which is likely is due to the wet-hopping process in which bitterness is muted somewhat. This is a deceivingly drinkable beer, as well as a world-class IPA with some of the freshest hops around. – Richard Wong
#10
96
by Randy Scorby
Sonoma Tart
Bear Republic Brewing Co.
Brewmaster Roger Herpst Talks Sonoma Tart
Who was responsible for this beer’s recipe?
I developed this recipe in collaboration with a team of brewers who brewed pilot batches in our nano and pub brewhouses. It was an awesome example of teamwork in the brewery— our excellent Lab Analyst Natasha Sana ran bench trials on different strains of lacto and brewed the initial nano batches, while our brewpub team knocked out a successful 15-bbl batch, followed by an amazing collaboration between our maintenance team and Head Brewer Rob Kent ensuring that the dedicated equipment was in place to sour 50-bbl batches of wort for full-scale production. It was super fun to work closely with the whole team on a new process, new bugs, and new equipment. All in the service of a delicious beer.
What sets this beer apart from other examples within the style?
This is a hard beer to nail down stylistically, but the quality shines through. Passion fruit and guava certainly were not traditional gose ingredients, and we were not adding table salt or coriander to this brew. We’ve taken to describing Sonoma Tart as a contemporary gose, where its bright acidity, gentle malt bill and subtle fruity character give this ale a flavor profile similar to a Sauvignon Blanc.
What makes this beer truly world-class?
The consistent, excellent flavor profile of Sonoma Tart is the direct result of carefully planned brewing procedures, the use of high-quality ingredients, and a team of dedicated brewers, cellar people and packaging operators. Each step of the brewing process is critical to ensuring quality, from the selection of a flavorful lactobacillus strain that sours wort in a dedicated anaerobic fermenter, to blending sweet and sour wort in the kettle. Additions of the right amount of fruit at the right time during fermentation as well as meticulously controlling transfer and packaging operations are also critical. I couldn’t be more proud of the Bear Republic team.
How popular is this beer among your faithful fans?
Bear Republic is known as a premier brewer of India Pale Ale, so it has been very gratifying to see Sonoma Tart introduce our brews to drinkers who wouldn’t necessarily order an IPA or hoppy pale. Even more satisfying is seeing the hardcore hop heads at our pub who normally drink Racer 5 or Thru the Haze IPA embrace this crisp sour beer. Sonoma Tart has become a mainstay in our year-round lineup, and I’m looking forward to brewing even more in 2020.
Judge’s Second Opinion
Whenever I mention or talk about sour beer styles to my “not quite as beer nerdy as me” friends, their reactions range from comical to horrified. “You like that stuff??,” “Sour beer, are you kidding me??,” ”Why would you ever want to drink anything like that??”
Those are all fair questions, I suppose, until you become a sour beer geek like me. Sour beer styles, although rightfully rapidly gaining popularity, are not what most people typically reach for or visit their local brewpub to find. But when you are lucky enough to find excellent examples of them, they can be some of the most satisfying, complex and enjoyable beers on the market. The best examples display a light to prominent hit of clean, lactic sourness (and maybe, depending on the style, a touch of acetic sourness) that is balanced with the malt or any adjuncts that may be present. Regardless, the sourness must be in balance and harmony with the beer itself.
Most fruit typically lends itself well to sourness, which is where Sonoma Tart excels as a sour beer. The passion fruit and guava are fresh and bright in the aroma and they are complemented by a light, clean tartness with a wave of candied orange and light bready malt to round it out. The deep, hazy yellow appearance and lingering white head draws you in even more, beckoning the drinker to taste it. The flavor is a journey of its own, taking the drinker on a roller coaster ride of guava, candied orange, pineapple and mango. The tart and fruity finish makes this a very refreshing beer no matter what the season is, but admittedly it would really hit the spot during the warm summer months.
What makes Sonoma Tart so special is the complexity that is provided by combining the fruit, base malt and lactic sourness. Although the fruit takes center stage, the sourness and malt character offer a supporting cast that truly sets this beer apart and pushes it into being a world-class example.
For those of you out there who love sour beer, Sonoma Tart is an absolute must to have on your beer wish list. For those of you out there who have thumbed your nose at sour beer in the past, this one just may be the gateway beer to introduce you to a lifetime exploration of sour beer styles. Regardless of which side of the fence you stand on, Bear Republic hit a home run with Sonoma Tart, and it deserves your undivided attention. – Randy Scorby
#9
96
by John C. Tull
Oak Barrel Aged Flanders Red Ale
Moody Tongue Brewing Co.
President & Brewmaster Jared Rouben Talks Oak Barrel Aged Flanders Red Ale
Who was responsible for this beer’s recipe?
Head Brewer J.T. Rea and I.
What sets this beer apart from other examples within the style?
I believe our culinary brewing philosophy helped us discern which fruit flavors and aromatics to showcase during the creation of this beer. Much of the complexity in the production of this style lies in the actual blending process of the aged beer with the younger Flanders Red Ale and tasting all of the barrels prior to building the final profile is instrumental in achieving balance. J.T. and I tasted each barrel multiple times before finalizing the blend so that we could ensure we would be bringing notes such as strawberry, cherry and rhubarb to life.
What makes this beer truly world-class?
To create an exceptional beer, it is important to pay homage to the history of the particular style. J.T. and I not only spent time researching and reading about traditional Flanders Red Ales, but later also traveled to Flanders to taste examples of the style prior to creating our own blend.
What is your favorite aspect of this beer (flavor, aroma, mouthfeel, etc.)?
I love this beer because it fills a void on beverage menus from a pairing standpoint. Flanders Red Ales are essentially the Burgundy of beer – much like a Pinot Noir, this style can pair just as easily with poultry (think dishes like roast chicken and Peking duck) as it can with heartier proteins (like a ribeye steak or ossobuco). While difficult and time-consuming to create, this style adds a new dimension to the pairing experience when thinking of how best to bring beer and food together.
How popular is this beer among your faithful fans?
Oak Barrel Aged Flanders Red Ale is quickly becoming one of the most popular specialty beers in our selection. We are excited to showcase this beer in particular, however, on our forthcoming pairing menu at the fine dining restaurant we are shortly opening at our brewery, The Dining Room. This beer will make for an outstanding pairing with dishes by our Executive Chef, Jared Wentworth, and will remain a showcase on draft and in bottles (as long as we’ve got the beer in inventory!) in our casual restaurant, The Bar.
Judge’s Second Opinion
When I first got serious about understanding world beer styles, my fascination with Belgian beers, particularly Belgian sours, really drove my passion. When a friend shared a bottle of Rodenbach Grand Cru, which was rare at the time, I instantly fell in love with the Flanders Red ale beer style. I even made the Flanders region a required stopping point on a trip I took with my wife to Europe, but I was dismayed to learn that traditional Flanders Red production was disappearing, being replaced with soda pop ales with short turnaround instead of the more time-consuming and expensive traditional sour beers.
Luckily, things turned around with the commercial proliferation of wild yeast strains and the craft brewing tradition of tackling brewing challenges. The sour beer movement in the U.S. ignited, and the traditional sour brewing regions of the world were thankfully reinvigorated.
Today there are lots of breweries producing sour ales, but few with the capacity and patience to do what Moody Tongue has done with their Oak Barrel Aged Flanders Red Ale. They visited Belgium and studied the style, then took the time needed to blend this beer in order to make it the best Flanders Red Ale possible. And they did an exceptional job in constructing it!
All of the hallmark characteristics are present in this Flanders: umami, tart fruit, subtle wood character and a touch of acetic acid. The fruit expression is rich, reminiscent of pie cherries. The malt character has not been over-consumed by the wild bugs during the ferment; instead, sufficient malt comes through, providing a wonderful balance to the acetic tartness.
I find great pleasure in being able to discover an example of this style that reminds me of my first sip of a Flanders Red Ale. Moody Tongue’s Oak Barrel Aged Flanders Red Ale is one such example. – John C. Tull
#8
96
by Sal Mortillaro II
The Sage
Archetype Brewing Co.
Co-Owner & Head Brewer Steven Anan Talks The Sage
Who was responsible for this beer’s recipe?
This was my own recipe that I started thinking about years before the first batch was brewed. The recipe was heavily inspired by Westvleteren 12. Years back, I had the pleasure of drinking Westy 12 while surrounded by good friends and family and the experience, as well as the quality, of that beer crystalized this style for me – maybe eternally.
What sets this beer apart from other examples within the style?
This beer showcases the potential of every ingredient used in this recipe. Every malt comes through, the yeast expression is obvious, and the candi syrup doesn’t dominate. It’s balanced, yet complex, and evolves as you drink it. All of this said, it has a certain synergy that I have a hard time taking credit for, aside from just being patient.
What makes this beer truly world-class?
I feel like the majority of brewers would agree with this statement: When inspiration drives the creation of a beer (or anything really), the difference is noticeable. It’s an experience I was trying to recreate for myself and share with other people. It wasn’t made to just fill a gap in our beer portfolio. It was made with patience and care in every step of the process (Thanks to brewers Erin Jordan and Tyler Foley, you are the truest ballers). Sometimes less is more, and I think this beer embodies that philosophy.
What is your favorite aspect of this beer (flavor, aroma, mouthfeel, etc.)?
The drinkability coupled with the flavor, for sure. Every aspect of the beer evolves throughout the drinking experience.
How popular is this beer among your faithful fans?
It’s both a staff favorite and a local favorite. We brew one batch a year and this one saw a small bottle run. The cases didn’t stick around for long! It’s nice to see both craft beer lovers and the uninitiated enjoying this beer.
Judge’s Second Opinion
Sage is defined as “one (such as a profound philosopher) distinguished for wisdom.” Us beer connoisseurs, both readers and judges, all know the sage words of Benjamin Franklin: “beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” It is of little coincidence the Belgian Dark Strong Ale style was introduced to the world by sage men who knew God – Trappist monks. As a result, it is also of little coincidence one of the finest beers of all time is also a Belgian Dark Strong, the venerated Westvleteren 12.
This beer style, when executed correctly, marries elements of decadent richness with sublime complexity. Archetype Brewing’s The Sage has achieved this same combination. The brute initial rush of dark candi sugar and malt richness quickly transforms into a sublime ether of well-tempered dark cherry, raisin, dried fig and pleasant alcohol warmth. Being one of my favorite styles, I had the opportunity to judge many beers of this style at a well-known beer competition. So many of them were lackluster and missed the ethereal component that sets the world-class examples apart; I believe Archetype has hit that ephemeral quality.
The deep richness found in this beer, though stylistically accurate, is not easy to create. Recipe formulation, patience, technique, nurturing and (perhaps) a bit of divine intervention are integral to this style. There is an axiom that “brewers make wort and yeast make beer” and truly and patiently loving your yeast in this style yields the fine line of ethyl complexities of warmth, slightly sweet and slightly bitter.
The Sage is the type of beer that turns beer drinkers into beer connoisseurs. There seems to be a rather unfortunate trend in the United States where brewers eschew traditional styles at the expense of the trend of the moment. Beers like The Sage remind us that traditional, hallmark beers are still relevant and a bridge between brewing past and brewing present.
As the colder months come upon us, this beer is good for warming the body and the soul and helping guide beer neophytes down the long, rocky road (as the bottle label suggests) towards beer nirvana. – Sal Mortillaro II
#7
96
by Michael Heniff
Brouwer’s 14th Anniversary
pFriem Family Brewers
Head Brewer Gavin Lord Talks Brouwer’s 14th Anniversary
What sets this beer apart from other examples within the style?
The fruit! Huckleberries have yet to be successfully cultivated anywhere in the world. As a result, although the fruit is often referenced in pop culture pertaining to the west (think Doc Holliday), few are actually familiar with its flavor and aroma. I love the idea that this might be someone’s introduction. The base beer has delightfully preserved the attributes of the fresh berries.
What makes this beer truly world-class?
Balance. I love the interaction between base beer, barrel and fruit. We value balance very highly in all of our beers, and the fruited mixed-culture offerings are certainly no exception. At times it can be a tightrope walk to find equilibrium between all of the many elements at play. As if that wasn’t enough, in this case we introduced some new variables. We’d never worked with huckleberries, and we’d never fruited directly into a barrel. I was delighted that despite presenting these new elements into our process, the beer found that elusive balance.
What is your favorite aspect of this beer (flavor, aroma, mouthfeel, etc.)?
This beer belongs to a larger family of beers to which I tend to gravitate. The aroma is very fruit driven, with notes of oak, acid and a touch of funk. The initial “attack” is again very fruit forward, fooling the sipper into expecting either the overly sweet or the overly acidic. Instead, the finish is dry and complex, with each sip revealing a little more of what this sly little beer has to offer. I’m a sucker for beers that are complex yet quaffable.
How popular is this beer among your faithful fans?
We enjoy four very distinct seasons here in the Pacific Northwest. We released the beer in March to coincide with the Brouwer’s Anniversary, and it was almost as though you could taste that summer was on its way. It’s a reassuring feeling after a long winter. That feeling, coupled with our brouwers’ reputations as stalwarts of the craft community, contributed to the great enthusiasm and excitement that surrounded this beer.
Judge’s Second Opinion
Brouwer’s 14th Anniversary was a fruited “lambic-inspired ale” fermented with a blend of Brettanomyces and lactic acid bacteria cultures and aged in oak with huckleberries. The resulting beer was a fantastic marriage of fruit and funkiness without having too much of either of those elements. The key aspect that made this beer fantastic was balance; there are plenty of very sour funky beers available as well as plenty of overly sweet, singularly flavored fruit beers. But what is hard to do, and what should be celebrated when it is done well, is balance.
A topic that is frequently discussed with regards to beer and food pairings are complementing flavors (such as stout and chocolate) and contrasting flavors (such as stout and oysters). These same philosophies apply to ingredients in a beer recipe and resulting flavors in beer. A very typical complementing balance in American IPAs is to blend hops that impart slightly different flavors such as Citra, Mosaic and Cascade. When this is done well, you can make a lengthy list of adjectives to describe the hop flavors; when this is done poorly, one hop outshines the rest and the beer is still singularly focused – despite having a number of different hop varieties.
Brouwer’s 14th Anniversary has both elements of complement and contrast. For complementing elements, the lactic sourness works well with the Brettanomyces funkiness and the slight sourness of the huckleberry fruit. For contrasting elements, the slight sweetness of the malt and huckleberries contrasts with the sourness imparted by the Lactobacillus blend. When all of these elements are brought together in perfect proportions, you have balance! And pFriem Family Brewers was able to balance all of these different elements perfectly. Well done! (And one may also give extra credit for the high degree of difficulty in the brewing process, which featured oak aging, multiple wild cultures, unusual foraged fruit, fermenting fruit in the barrels, etc.)
This beer helped to drive home the idea that balance is always worth thinking about when you are drinking or brewing your favorite beers. Every beer does not have to be a “hop bomb” or have a single over-the-top flavor. Look for both complementing and contrasting flavors. Seek out balance and enjoy the interplay between flavors that is inherent with balance. Cheers! – Michael Heniff
#6
96
by Nelson Crowle
Festbier
East Brother Beer Co.
Head Brewer Paul Liszewski Talks Festbier
Who was responsible for this beer’s recipe?
Co-Founder Chris Coomber and I spend a lot of time evaluating other commercially available examples of the style. After we find one or two that we really like, we dissect why we like each beer and where the flavors come from. What is it about the malt backbone we like? The hop flavor and bitterness? The appearance? Finally, we review our tasting notes from the previous release and sample from our beer library to decide what tweaks we want to make. We were happy with last year’s results, but we still found areas for improvement.
What sets this beer apart from other examples within the style?
Most importantly, balance in flavor sets this apart from others within the style. A clean finish coupled with clear and crisp layers of flavor beckon your palate to indulge the next sip. True to style with the freshest locally available ingredients highlight what your local craft brewery can produce. This easy-to-drink beer allows you to celebrate the harvest of local ingredients and encourages you to focus on creating that special moment with your friends.
What makes this beer truly world-class?
You said it, not us! We brewed this beer last year and were quite happy with it, but there is always room for improvement. Rather than pushing the style guidelines for a particular style, we focused on improving our process and ingredient selection. We revised last year’s recipe and the most notable change was in the base malt, for which we used our local maltster, Admiral Maltings. The result was additional layers of flavor due to the incredible freshness of the malt, elevating this beer from good to great. Close your eyes, take a sip and you will swear that you are wearing lederhosen, sitting under a walnut tree and listening to an oompah band in Germany.
How popular is this beer among your faithful fans?
We first released this beer last year and, admittedly, we were late for the Oktoberfest season. However, we were overwhelmed by the positive responses we received from many people, who told us that this was the best of the season. We were on time this year and managed to sell out before the beer was even packaged. This year, we moved to Admiral Maltings for the bulk of the malt bill and found that using fresh malt raised the bar for this brew.
Judge’s Second Opinion
Festbier. It sounds like one of those beers that has been around for hundreds of years, very German, and steeped in tradition and history. However, it’s actually a relatively new style of beer – from the 1970s.
Way back in 1810, Crown Prince Ludwig I of Bavaria wanted to marry the Saxon Princess Therese – and of course, there needed to be a huge party in the Wiese (meadow) to celebrate. That’s where Oktoberfest started – but they didn’t drink Festbier at the time. They probably were drinking a somewhat darker beer. Along came Gabriel Sedlmayr in 1872, and he upset the apple cart completely by introducing a deep, amber, malty, complex beer that we call Marzen or Oktoberfest. That went great for a hundred years, then Paulaner decided that a lighter (in color and body) beer was more appropriate for the millions of visitors attending the annual Oktoberfest in Munich each year. They created Festbier, and all six breweries that pour beer at Oktoberfest have served the lighter Festbier style ever since.
East Brother Beer Co. from Richmond, California, has done an exemplary job of faithfully recreating the Festbier style. The beer pours brilliantly clear deep gold, with a nice poofy head of fine white foam, and the bubbles keep rising from the bottom; a very pretty and very appealing brew. The aroma and flavor both greet you with interestingand complex malt characters including bread crusts, freshly baked bread dough, a light toasty note, a hint of honey (but not sweet) and some nice background floral and black pepper hop notes – with just enough bitterness to give a dry finish that invites another sip (and another and another…).
Typical Oktoberfest Festbier is about 6 percent ABV – East Brother’s version is a solid 5.8 percent. At Oktoberfest you might drink a couple of liters – but the 16oz can is only about half a liter, so you’re good for a few if you’re looking to celebrate.
While you’re enjoying a couple of East Brother Festbiers, why not go all German and do some bratwurst on the grill? I was able to sample a can of Festbier with bratwurst and the beer does a great job of cutting through the fatty/oily sausage, resetting your palate and getting you ready for more food. A match made in heaven!
East Brother also makes several other true-to-style beers, and they seem to be genuinely interested in producing the best example of each of these styles. With their Festbier, they certainly have done a great job! – Nelson Crowle
#5
96
by Rick Franckhauser
Oude Kriek
pFriem Family Brewers
Head Brewer Gavin Lord Talks Oude Kriek
Who was responsible for this beer’s recipe?
Our beers live in a state of constant evolution. Recipe, process, raw ingredients, concept – all are subject to change in the name of quality. Our production team seeks to constantly improve our offerings one minor tweak at a time, and in this way, we’re all responsible for each recipe. In this case, our team is expanded to include Brian McCormick, our cherry grower, who is an extraordinary winemaker and a great friend of the brewery. His insight has been invaluable over the years in helping us select fruit, refine our process, blend varieties and understand how a cherry’s aroma and flavor will develop and change over time.
How popular is this beer among your faithful fans?
Kriek was among the first four fruited Lambic-inspired beers we ever produced and has been consistently well received. We now produce about a dozen beers in this family annually, and Kriek tends to lead the charge in terms of volume and sales. I think it’s a familiar combination of exciting yet comforting flavors that sets it apart from the others and makes it so great for special occasions.
Can you describe this beer in 10 words or less?
Light, dry, tart, berry. Cherry pie and rose petals.
Do you know a story – or have a personal story – that revolves around this beer?
We make sure that our production team gets out to the orchard every year to pick at least some portion of our cherries. Brewers and packagers don picking buckets and climb orchard ladders into the canopy of 100-year-old Bing, Van and Royal Anne trees, chasing next year’s Kriek. Brian’s property, named for his winery, Idiot’s Grace, is just five miles east of the brewery. Cherries typically ripen in June in the Gorge, which puts them at risk of late spring rains, and last year was no exception. The forecasted storm inspired a sense of urgency, and we got the last of our fruit off just before the first lightning struck a nearby ridge. The relief of avoiding electrocution blended with the gratification of the day’s work and the anticipation of this year’s release all combined to produce a giddy atmosphere in the brewery as we racked barrels onto fruit.
What’s a good food pairing for this beer?
Aged cheeses and charcuterie, duck, venison and chocolate volcano cake.
Judge’s Second Opinion
I concluded my review of Oude Kriek by making the claim that this is what world-class beer tastes like. I feel confident that others who appreciate the complexities of the style will agree. The balancing act of combining all those peculiar aromatics and flavors into one harmonious beer is what sets Oude Kriek apart. Admittedly, Lambic is not everyone’s cup of tea (or beer). The addition of fruits, like the cherries for a Kriek, may move the beer slightly to the more approachable range for some drinkers, others just can’t make the trip. I get that, it’s a strange brew. However, its oddities may be the key source of my appreciation. I love diversity, and as with life, beer without diversity would just be boring.
Upon sampling my first Lambic, I was blown away by the complexity and variety of aromas and flavors I was experiencing in that one bottle. Later, I discovered the Kriek style, and found cherries to be the perfect accompaniment to the funky sourness. The great examples of the style exhibit multiple funky notes along with a blend of citric and lactic acid elements, perhaps a touch of acetic acid, not overly high vinegar levels and even a little malic acid from the cherries or raspberries in the fruited variants, all coalescing for a complex balance that seems to transform with each sample.
While I prefer authentic Belgian examples of this style, there are a few fine U.S. versions and pFriem’s Oude Kriek is certainly one of the best I’ve ever experienced. The cherries are prominent without being dominant and they come across as fermented fresh cherries, nothing artificial or overly sweet. The funky aspects are present without being over-the-top or off-putting. The blend of acidity is complex, not the one-dimensional citric or lactic versions that are more common. Some of the wheat malt character comes through helping to balance the sourness. A nice dry finish promotes another sip. Everything is there interacting in a complex and complementary manner. Each whiff and each sip provide a new experience and another level of the beer is revealed.
I love it when a beer captures my attention and takes me on a little trip where the scenery is familiar yet new, causing me to focus on the beer and providing pleasant little surprises along the way. Oude Kriek checks off all the boxes for meeting the style, but, more importantly, it takes your senses for a nice ride too. – Rick Franckhauser
#4
96
by Brad Darnell
Irish Coffee Barrel-Aged Legion
Community Beer Co.
Brewmaster Jamie Fulton Talks Irish Coffee Barrel-Aged Legion
What sets this beer apart from other examples within the style?
The intricate balance among the ingredients really sets this beer apart from others. The bold malt profile, oak and spirit elements from the Jameson barrels and locally sourced coffee each shine in their own way, but when together, they really bring a sense of harmony to the beer.
What makes this beer truly world-class?
The key is balance. The rich, roasty malt, the delicate barrel/spirit character and the coffee finding its way into the mix without dominating. The result is a bold, flavorful stout with a silky-smooth finish, hiding the high ABV quite well.
What is your favorite aspect of this beer (flavor, aroma, mouthfeel, etc.)?
The aroma of the barrel/spirit mingling with cocoa/coffee notes really is divine!
How popular is this beer among your faithful fans?
This year was the first time we produced the Irish Coffee variant of Barrel-Aged Legion, and it was well received! It sold out in the market far faster than we expected, and we wish we had brewed more! We will definitely be brewing it again in the future.
Where does this beer’s name come from?
The name for the beer was actually crowd-sourced through a fun contest with our fans! Legion struck a chord with us as it conveys a powerful force to be reckoned with. It’s a perfect fit for a badass, big and bold stout.
Is this your “desert island beer?”
I’d probably have to go with our Texas Lager for a desert island libation, but you’d definitely get some decent calories out of this beer!
Do you know a story – or have a personal story – that revolves around this beer?
This year when we poured this beer at GABF we knew we were onto something special. Word spread around the festival and the line at our booth started getting longer and longer, filled with folks wanting to try this beer. It was a very humbling experience and it’s always very validating to receive compliments from fans and colleagues in the industry!
Judge’s Second Opinion
This opaque, perfectly jet-black beer really struck me as well-made when I originally evaluated the sample. It starts as a beautiful beer that I eagerly raise ever closer to experience that first whiff, which does not disappoint. The aroma fills my nose with heavy and rich sweet milk chocolate and light coffee notes, though the chocolate is most dominant. The flavor is a mouth-coating heavy and lightly bitter rich dark malt, reminiscent of dark chocolate truffles, a light hop bitterness, light spicy hops and a malt-dominant, dry finish. The beer is complex and invites further contemplation. Despite the rich chocolate-dominant character, I know there is far more to this fine ale.
After further analysis and extended contemplation, I uncover plump dark fruit aromas, cocoa powder and light oak notes. The head persists throughout and leaves a short-lived lace line. The beer is clean with only malt-derived dark fruit character. This rich dark malt character, along with the lack of bitterness, intrigued me since the beer maintains a balanced malt sweetness without any harsh dark malt bitterness, a character all too typical in many similar beers. Dark chocolate lingers into the finish and a dry alcoholic character cuts the sweetness. Some oak character is present as is a spicy rye whiskey note.
Barrel-aging is a technique that brewers use to add character and/or complexity to their beers, and this particular beer certainly benefited from that. The Jameson cask imparts some additional notes of oak and whiskey without providing any harshness. I found this particular aspect extremely well executed.
I would love having this beer in my cellar and sampling it over time to evaluate how it changes with time. For now though I am glad to have tried this and recommend others enjoy it as a contemplative beer by itself or alongside other strong flavors, such as rich and creamy blue cheese or grilled lamb chops. – Brad Darnell
#3
96
by Michael Bury
Stranger Danger
Monday Night Brewing
Brewmaster Peter Kiley Talks Stranger Danger
Who was responsible for this beer’s recipe?
This one was my idea. We made a really big stout a while back and released it without adjuncts. Crazy, right? We saved some of it to age in barrels. Both of those were really well-received. So, when we were thinking about beers we were going to brew in the fall months, that big stout came back to me. We were planning to release it in October, so I thought we should do some sort of Halloween-themed beer. Since everyone’s favorite candy is peanut butter cups (there’s no debating), we went with it.
What sets this beer apart from other examples within the style?
There are a lot of crazy good “pastry stouts” out there, so I’m honored this beer scored so high. But If I had to say, it’s probably because we put a wildly irresponsible amount of peanut butter cups into this beer. So many, in fact, that we were getting dirty looks at the store when we bought them. I’m proud to say that during brewing, we only ate two bags of them. Well, maybe it was more like five!
What makes this beer truly world-class?
I’m extremely proud of the entire team on this one. I got the crazy idea to do this beer, but it’s their job to make that idea a reality. We do a lot of research and development and tweaking before we start brewing, and then the crew works tirelessly to create the best beer we can put out. Plus, this one had a little something extra and fun built into it.
What is your favorite aspect of this beer (flavor, aroma,mouthfeel, etc.)?
This has been one of those beers that brings people joy when they try it. When it was on at our taproom, it was the one beer everyone’s eyes were immediately drawn to. It was fun to develop and fun to make, but the most fun is seeing the smiles on people’s faces after they try it. It’s such an experiential liquid.
What’s a good food pairing for this beer?
This one works well on its own. Send the kids out trick-or-treating and stay at home with this beer. It pairs well with a cold night, a warm fire, good company and a sweet tooth.
Judge’s Second Opinion
Is it a beer? Or a favorite treat from the circus? Maybe a decadent pie? If you answered yes to all three of those questions, then we’re talking about Monday Night Brewing’s Stranger Danger. It’s an imperial milk stout that stops short of being overly sweet like a pastry stout while containing peanut butter, cocoa and vanilla beans that have all married together within the confines of a bourbon barrel. And at 13 percent ABV, this beer is best served in a snifter and enjoyed as a post-meal treat. An even better situation would be a weekend evening with a roaring fire going in the fireplace and snow falling outside.
One of the many reasons this beer received top marks stems from the brewer’s creativity and skill in transforming the base ingredients into a culinary adventure. During my career judging over 10,000 different beers, I’ve sampled dozens upon dozens of peanut-based beers. Yet I’ve never had a beer that highlights peanut butter so well without any of the rancid flavors that can arise from such a heavy dose. It literally is reminiscent of a peanut butter pie with a chocolate graham cracker crust. That’s the skill of the brewer shining through. Additionally, the lactose used (it’s an imperial milk stout after all) and the bourbon barrel-aging could have easily tilted the balance of the beer into the extremely sweet realm. But with a proper fermentation, it’s well attenuated and without any fusel alcohol. Furthermore, the savory aspects of the peanut butter help to offset the sweetness.
All the praise being said about the beer there is one drawback: it’s intense. It doesn’t shy away from what it is and makes some of the boldest imperial stouts blush. The peanut butter, which comes off more as roasted peanuts, dominates in both the aroma and flavor. But all the flavors are potent and upfront so if you struggle picking up nuances of lighter styles, then give Stranger Danger a chance. Just remember to bring a friend for backup. – Michael Bury
#2
96
by John C. Tull
Cruise Control
Two Roads Brewing Co.
Co-Founder & Brewmaster Phil Markowski Talks Cruise Control
Who was responsible for this beer’s recipe?
It was a group effort. We took a while to develop Cruise Control and did it in a measured and controlled way. We’d brew a pilot batch and then sample it across a spectrum of tasters across all departments of the company. I would then take the feedback, translate that into changes to the formulation and brew another batch. It was repeat, repeat, repeat until we got it exactly where we wanted it.
What sets this beer apart from other examples within the style?
German-style Helles is a beer that has a relatively narrow bandwidth. Differences between examples of the style can be downright hair-splitting. I wouldn’t say that our Cruise Control greatly stands out from other examples in that we target the hallmarks of that style: a refined character, the use of old-world malt and hops and achieving a balance between the malt and hops that makes you want to take another sip – before you’ve even finished the last one!
What makes this beer truly world-class?
Balance!
What is your favorite aspect of this beer (flavor, aroma, mouthfeel, etc.)?
What I like best about Cruise Control is the balance. It is alternatively malty and hoppy. What I think the old-world brewers do best is create this fine balance that weaves in and out of malt-dominant/hop-dominant character as the beer plays out across the palate. This is what we were striving for with Cruise Control and I think we’ve hit it!
How popular is this beer among your faithful fans?
Cruise Control is popular with a wide range of consumers, but if I had to generalize, I would say Cruise Control is most popular with the more mature drinker. I use the word mature carefully and with two meanings. In the first I’m referring to age, in that this drinker is someone who grew up in the pre-craft era and has an affinity for import-style lagers as opposed to highly hopped IPAs. Secondly, I use the term to describe someone who has been around craft beer for years and has come to appreciate not just hazy IPAs but the breadth of beers available, including (and perhaps increasingly) an affinity toward lagers. I don’t know a highly experienced brewer who doesn’t appreciate a well-made lager.
Judge’s Second Opinion
Sometimes all you want is a beer. Beer is a beverage that humans have enjoyed for literally thousands of years in various formats and guises. Fortunately for us, beer has evolved in parallel as we have progressed as a species in our scientific knowledge. Believe it or not, it wasn’t until the late 1800s before we understood the very basics of microbiology and the importance of sanitation in the brewing process to begin making and enjoying beer that was able to focus on the most basic ingredients: malt and hops.
Two Roads Cruise Control is one of these imminently quaffable yet simple beers. This Munich Helles beer keeps its focus on the restrained and balanced use of malt and hops. It hits all of the hallmarks of this style with an emphasis on clean, pilsner malt and European origin noble hops. Munich-produced beers are also characterized by the relatively high mineral content of the waters that emphasize the hops and tend to have a mineral quality that one can taste, particularly in the lighter lagers like Munich Helles. Two Roads Cruise Control either benefits from a similar water profile in the local brewing water, or the brewers took the time to adjust their water to better mimic the style. Either way, it’s an impressively authentic and clean-tasting brew.
Like you, I honestly love beer and all of the incredible variety that we can produce, even when we remain focused on only malt and hops. But there are often times when the most refreshing example of a wonderful beer is a throwback that is restrained and delivers something that is not weighed down by distractions. Sometimes all you want is a beer. Two Roads Cruise Control is a beer for those times. – John C. Tull
#1
96
by David Sapsis
Terrible
Unibroue
Brewmaster Jerry Veitz Talks Cruise Control
Who was responsible for this beer’s recipe?
This recipe was created back in 2002 by Paul Arnott who was brewmaster for Unibroue between 2000 and 2007.
What sets this beer apart from other examples within the style?
The fruity flavors are much more subtle in Terrible than they are in most Belgian Quadrupels. Caramel malt and spices are much more prominent. These flavors are complemented by rich Madeira wine notes. Terrible presents a silky body with a deep, well-balanced flavor profile that will surprise you by lingering on the palate, reminding the enthusiast of the product’s alcohol strength.
What makes this beer truly world-class?
This beer, which has won 21 international medals, represents the union of many different cultures. It was created by a brewer born in the United Kingdom, who learned the skills of the brewing trade with Belgian Trappists. Wouldn’t you agree that this combination features two of the best brewing traditions in the world? Moreover, it was brewed in a young, dynamic North American brewery for a new generation of drinkers with different expectations. While it follows the best European breweries’ traditions and know-how, it still offers a modern je ne sais quoi.
What is your favorite aspect of this beer (flavor, aroma, mouthfeel, etc.)?
Its great drinkability and accessibility versus the terrifying image it projects. In French, the word terrible is used as two completely different adjectives: it can mean awful or dreadful (just as in English); but it also means awesome (terrific, fantastic, impressive). Because of its dark chestnut color and 10.5 percent ABV, people tend to think it’s inaccessible while in reality, it’s quite the opposite.
How popular is this beer among your faithful fans?
While Terrible is a year-round offering in the United States, it is only available as a seasonal product in Canada. It only becomes available every two or three years, for a limited time only. Given these conditions and its notoriety, Unibroue aficionados always welcome the return of Terrible. Since its properties make it the perfect beer for aging, many fans buy a few bottles at a time to age them in their cellars.
Judge’s Second Opinion
The nose presents a forward unsweetened cocoa and light roast coffee front with dark spicy angles: some hints of bitter orange, light pepper and raisin/madeira over that lovely lightly roasty backdrop. As it is swirled, the alcohol lifts the dark fruit and dried herbal spiciness into a superbly balanced presentation where the malt ferment and alcohol foundation form a truly intriguing elixir. The sweetness is so subtle that it allows these other normally more reserved components to shine without being obtrusive. It is simple, yet very inviting for its depth. Possibly this is what is so interesting and puzzling – its complexity wrapped in simplicity. It’s not oxymoronic, I don’t think, just a bit of a mystery. It’s downright beguiling.
The flavor starts with a deeply rich and dark caramel note, a bit molasses-like, with an angle of prune-like dark fruit, a bit of black cherry and a lovely pepper spice that is not overtly phenolic but rather more like licorice root in sweet spiciness. There is a trace of bitterness, and a fairly big shot of acid in the mid-palate, adding balance to the residual malt sweetness. As the profile trails out, the finish is surprisingly dry (and true to the nose), with a nice lingering nutty-roast-coffee and sherry-like character complementing the spice. It’s actually pretty hot in the finish, but that just makes that licorice/sweet spice that much more part of the picture and seems to tone the body down and lighten the overall character.
The flavor profile hits some of the same paradox found in the nose – big and rich, but not overtly sweet at all; the countervailing components of dark malt, dark fruit and sublime spicy character are all mixed into a very straightforward package. In this regard it is both simpler and more overtly herbal/spicy (without being phenolic) than typical Belgian strong dark ales, which are often quite sweet. All of which is to say, it’s exceedingly drinkable for a big beer of impressive strength and character.
Beguiling – to charm by diversion or deception – is one of the coolest words I know. As applied to a beer, it hints at attraction, puzzlement and wonder, which are all words that perfectly describe Unibroue’s Terrible. – David Sapsis
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